PerTronix JBA Exhaust 1830S - Manual (Page 2)

PerTronix© thanks you for choosing JBA HEADERS, the best fitting, highest quality header on the market. In order to real-
ize the full potential of our good fit, please read and understand these instructions completely prior to starting work. Check
to make sure you received the proper parts for your application. The header number will be stamped on the engine flange. If
you are unsure you have received the proper parts call before you start work.
Be sure to work safe! Whenever you work under the vehicle be sure that it is located on level, solid ground and is supported
by adequate safety stands! Remember: Hot asphalt will not support most jack stands! Many factors affect the installation of
headers, some of which are broken or aftermarket motor mounts, accidents that impact the configuration of the frame, and/or
the installation of different engines or aftermarket cylinder heads.
Attention Customers breaking in new engines: Due to the extreme heat generated during the break-in process, the appearance
of the ceramic coating may be altered in certain areas. The protection characteristics and thermal barrier properties of the
coating is never compromised. It is recommended that a cast iron manifold or old set of headers be used for this process.
Notice: The coating of these headers can be marred or scratched during installation. If the header needs to be returned and is
damaged, you will be charged for recoat.
JBA uses sealing beads on all its headers. We have found that when installed correctly, the raised bead around each port increases the
pressure exerted on the gasket directly adjacent to the port and effectively prevents leaking gaskets. It is normal for the flange to be
raised off the cylinder head the thickness of the sealing bead. It is important when installing the header, to install all bolts loosely, then
tighten evenly to ensure the flat installation of the flange. The torque sequence from one flange to another will vary, but generally
every bolt on a header should be first fit snug, starting from the inside of the flange working out, alternating from top to bottom so that
the bolt connects the flange to the manifold to the point where they barely touch. Second, using the same inside-out pattern, tighten
each bolt until finished. This method will help prevent leakage and will give the user the best possible performance out of their pair of
headers.
Special Tools
Power Steering Pump Pulley Puller. Snap-On ® part number CJ117A or equivalent.
Power Steering Pump Pulley Installer. Snap-On ® part number CJ113B101 or equivalent.
Note: A less expensive alternative: Lisle builds a puller (Pt #40000). It can be found in most auto parts stores.
1. Place vehicle in a location where the floor is solid and flat, with adequate lighting. Do not attempt to work on a hot engine. Heat
causes metal to expand and makes removal of fasteners difficult at best. Disconnect the battery cables from the battery. Raise the front
of the vehicle to obtain adequate access to the bottom exhaust manifold flanges. Use large-base jack stands to support the vehicle. Do
not rely on the jack! Block the tires to prevent the vehicle from rolling off the jack stands.
2. Begin with the driver’s side. (It is the more difficult of the two sides) Spray WD-40 or some type of penetrating oil on all accessible
fasteners and fittings before attempting to remove them. From the bottom side, unbolt the spring-loaded bottom flange nuts (where the
manifold connects to the exhaust system). The stock nuts are intentionally deformed to prevent them from prematurely loosening. This
also makes removal difficult. Apply as much torque as necessary to remove the nuts. The nuts may not turn and the stud may begin to
unthread from the manifold. This is a problem because the studs have shoulders, which will not pull through the exhaust flange. If the
stud comes loose, reverse your wrench and tighten the stud back into the manifold solidly. Try again to remove the nuts. If the nuts are
still jammed on, apply heat to the nut with an acetylene torch. Try again to remove the nuts. If all else fails cut the nuts off. The Head-
ers are supplied with new bolts and nuts for reinstallation.
3. On the topside: Unbolt the spark plug wire looms from the cylinder heads. Do not skip this step. Otherwise the spark plug looms
will hold the head flange out, away from the head, preventing the headers from sealing. Disconnect the spark plug wires by grasp-
ing and gently twisting the spark plug wire boots. Do not pull on the wires. Set the wires and looms up out of the way. Brush or blow
away any debris, which may have collected around the manifolds and spark plugs. This will help prevent foreign matter from entering
the combustion chambers when the manifolds are removed. Removal of the spark plugs is
not necessary, but it may avoid accidental spark plug breakage. Where equipped, (Model
1831 Applications) remove the air tube from the top of the stock manifold.
4. The power steering pump must be freed from its bracketry in order to remove the
driver’s side manifold. This is due to the [brilliant] design of the power steering pump/al-
ternator bracketry. The steel bracket is fastened to the exhaust manifold studs on both sides
of the front exhaust port. The studs cannot be removed until the bracket is pulled outward
from the engine. The bracket cannot be pulled outward until the power steering pump is
removed from the aluminum bracket. Besides, the steel bracket needs to be removed to
modify it anyway! In other words, yes you really do have to go through step 5.