Great Planes Super Sportster 40 MkII Kit - GPMA0205 User Manual
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Skip this step if you are building a taildragger
D 1. If you are going to be installing nose gear, you
should mark the location of the nose gear wire by
inserting an ice pick or sharpened piece of wire through
the bearing holes in the engine mount from the top, out
through the bottom of the cowl. Enlarge the initial hole to
provide clearance for the nose gear wire and spring coil.
grain several times to soften it up before proceeding. Glue
the forward deck sides to the top edge of the fuse. Apply a
bead of glue to the top stringer, formers, and cockpit floor,
then roll the sheet into position. Hold it in place while the
CA cures.
D 6. Trim and sand the top of the forward deck sides and
stringers flush with the tops of the formers.
D 2. Cut the 3/16" x 3/16" x 24" balsa stringer into two
10-1/2" long pieces. Glue the stringers into the notches on
the corners of F-1A, F-2C, and F3-B. The aft end of each
stringer should extend past F-3B by 3/8". They will also
overhang F-1A by 7/8".
D 3. Cut two 3/32" x 1-1/4" x 18" balsa sheets for the
f o r w a r d deck sides from a 3/32" x 2-1/4" x 18"
balsa sheet.
D 7. Bevel one end of the 3/8" x 3" x 12" balsa forward
deck top block to match the plans at the instrument panel.
Glue the block in position with the aft edge even with the aft
edge of the stringers. Cut off the forward deck top block
and sides about 1-3/4" forward of the firewall.
D 8. Glue the die-cut 1/32" ply instrument panel to the aft
edge of the forward deck top block and to the cockpit floor.
D 4. Hold a sheet against the fuse side, then mark and cut
the aft edge to fit the notch you made at F-4B. Check that
the outer cockpit floor edges have been sanded to match
the F-3B former.
D 5. If the sheet feels too stiff to be curved without splitting,
wet the outside surface with water, then flex it with the
D 9. Use a razor plane and coarse sandpaper to shape the
forward deck top block to match the radius shown on the
cross sections on the plans.
D 10. Use the "eyeball" method to cut and sand the top
portion of the cowl to fit around your engine. Work slowly,
removing only a little material at a time. Test fit the engine
after each adjustment to be sure you don't go too far.
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