Great Planes Super Sportster 40 MkII Kit - GPMA0205 - Manual (Page 24)

D 3. Center the stab visually using the centerline you drew
in step #1. Measure the distance from each stab tip to a pin
centered at the nose. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the stab
in position.
D 4. Position the fin between the lines on the stab, with the
stab TE and fin TE flush, then pin it in place. Check that it's
aligned with the c e n t e r l i n e of the f u s e with a long
straightedge held against the fin and the fuse top center
stringer. Use thick CA to glue the fin in position while
holding a triangle against it and the stab to maintain
vertical alignment.
D 7. Use thick CA to glue the shaped fin fillets to the stab,
fin, and fuse.
D 8. Glue the 1/4" triangular fin leading edge fairing to the
fin and the top stringer. Sand the top edge of the fairing to
match the concave shape shown on the plans.
D 9. Fit a leftover of 3/32" sheet between the top stringer
as shown in photo for step 8.
Hang in there. Only a few more things to do before you
start covering.
D 5. Locate the two 1/2" x 1" x 4-5/8" tapered fin fillets.
Draw a diagonal line on the top side (that's the side that
slopes) of each part as shown in the photo. Position the
fillet blocks against the aft side of F-7C. Trace the curvature
on the high end of the fillet blocks.
Note: Before working on the belly pan, we suggest that you
remove the wing from the fuse, then insert a layer of waxed
paper between the F-2 / LE joint and F-4 / TE joint of the
wing. This will help prevent the wing from being accidently
glued to the fuse.
D 6. Cut along the line with a hobby saw to remove the
excess, then use a razor plane and sanding block to round
the fillet to match the curved line on its forward edge.
D 1. Hold a flexible ruler across the bottom of the wing,
touching the fuse at both the forward and trailing edges.
Draw lines on both sides of the wing bottom as shown.
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