Appendix a: troubleshootini – Troy-Bilt 682J User Manual

Page 42

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Appendix A: Troubleshootini

• Hardware holding

tine

holders to tine

shaft

may

be missing or broken. To check,

remove holders

(Sect. 5).

• Key for bronze

worm

gear on tine attach­

ment

main drive shaft may be missing or

broken.

5 Tines Turn, But Wheels Won’t:

• Check operation of Wheel Speed Lever

(Problem 2).

• Hi-Pro key inside wheel clutch may be

missing, broken. If so, clutch will not turn

wheel shaft.

• FAST and SLOW speed wheel gears may

be worn. If only one gear is worn, there will

only be one wheel speed.

• Worm gear that drives pinion shaft and

pinion gears may be worn.

• FAST and SLOW speed pinion gears

may

be worn. If only one gear is worn, there will

only be one wheel speed.

• Drive “dogs” on sides of wheel clutch may

be worn or broken. If only one side of clutch
is affected, there will only be one wheel

speed.

6 Wheels And Tines Turn On Top Of
Ground, But

Stop

Or Hesitate In

Soil:

• Drive belt may be loose (Sect. 5).

• Mounting bolt for transmission drive pulley

may be loose (Figure 5-1}.

7 Tiller Jumps While Tilling:

• Depth Regulator Lever

set

too deep for soil

conditions. Use a shallower

setting.

• Engine throttle speed too fast.

• Tiller wheel speed too

fast

for soil condi­

tions. Change

to

LOW bell range or SLOW

wheel speed.

8 Depth Regulator Lever

Difficult

To Move:

• Lubricate

spring assembly

and depth

adjustment bar (Sect. 5).

• Check for bent depth adjustment bar.

g Wheel And Shaft Move
Out To One Side:

• Snap ring on

wheel

shaft may be

dislodged.

Raise wheels off ground and

check

for

back

and forth play in

shaft,

if

there is play, one or both snap rings is loose.

10

Tiller Pulls To One Side:

• Check

tire

pressure

(Sect.

5).

11 Tine Holder Bolt
Breaks Or Loosens:

• Earlier models have tine holder keys.

Check

that

keys are in keyways of tine

shaft.

Without key in holder, left-side

tine

bolt will

tighten

and

break; right-side bolt will loosen

(Sect.

5).

12 Poor Traction:

• Bar tread tires, tire chains, or wheel

weights may be needed.

13 Gear Oil Leak

From

Power

Unit

Or Tine

Attachment Transmissions:

• See Section 5.

14 Engine Lacks Power:

• *Air cleaner restricted with dirt and/or oil.

• Spark plug wire loose or damaged. Spark

plug worn or fouled.

• Engine under excessive work load. Use

SLOW wheel speed and LOW belt range.

• * Throttle cable may be loose or misad-

jusled.

• Verify that engine isn’t running with choke

partially engaged.

• *Check Carburetor adjustment.

• *Engine overheating. Check oil level and

clean cooling fins. Oil may be very dirty. Let

hot engine cool before restarting.

• *Dirt or water in fuel or fuel system.

• Engine crankcase low in oil, or overfilled

with oil. Check and adjust level.

• *Low engine compression.

15 Engine

Difficult

To Start:

• Wheels/Tines/PTO Drive Lever not in

NEUTRAL position.

• Fuel tank low or empty.

• *Dirt or water in fuel or fuel system.

• *Fuel line is restricted.

• * Choke control not set properly.

• *Spark plug worn or fouled (weak spark).

• *Air cleaner restricted with dirt and/or oil.

• *Throttle cable adjustment.

• Engine throttle lever not free to move

through its full operating range.

• Throttle wire and its linkage are binding, or

are bent and not free to move.

• Low engine compression.

16 Engine Won’t Start:

• See Troubleshooting the

Forward Interlock

Safety System

in Section 5.

• Wheels/Tines/PTO Drive Lever not in

NEUTRAL position.

• Fuel tank low or empty. Or fuel line

restricted or clogged.

• * Choke control Improperly set.

• * Water or dirt in fuel, and /or fuel system.

• *Spark plug fouled or worn. Spark plug

wire loose or damaged.

• * Carburetor may need adjustment.

• *Air filter clogged with oil or dirt.

• Carburetor float faulty (or float valve

leaking)- if so, tap side of bowl lightly with
handle of screwdriver (or similar object).

• Stale fuel clogs carburetor, and valves.

Drain old fuel and add new fuel.

• *Fuel tank shut-off valve (if

so

equipped)

not in fully Open position.

On Briggs

& Stratton engine,

On/Off

switch

not in ON

position.

Electric

Start

Engines Only:

• Electrical connections loose or shorted

to

metal frames, brackets or covers

(Sect.

5).

• Battery discharged (Sect. 5).

Electric starter motor

faulty.

17 Engine Shuts

Off

When Wheels/

Tines/PTO Drive Lever Is

In

Forward:

• See Troubleshooting the Forward Interlock

Safety System in Section 5.

• Short in key

switch

or key switch wire

harness.

• Check starter

motor

mounting bolts

for

looseness. Have Authorized

Engine

Service

Dealer inspect the starter motor.

• Check oil level for correct

amount.

18 Engine Overheats

• Clean

the

engine cooling fins, shroud and

covers

(Sect.

5).

• Check for broken flywheel fins (under

engine shroud). See Authorized Engine

Dealer.

19 Engine Runs Erratically:

• Water or dirt in gasoline or carburetor.

• Carburetor may need adjustment. See

Engine Owner’s Manual.

• *Spark plug fouled or dirty. Spark plug

wire

loose

or

damaged.

• * Loose or cracked carburetor.

• Governor

linkage

not

adjusted

properly or

binding. See Authorized Engine Service
Dealer. Don't

attempt to

repair by yourself.

• Check

pan gasket, engine seals

and

drain

plugs

for leaks. See your Authorized Engine

Service

Dealer.

20 Engine Runs Well,

But Labors Under Tiller Load

• *Check

governor

linkage for

freedom

of

movement.

• Check throttle setting

and

carburetor

adjustment. See Engine

Owner’s

Manual.

• Tilling depth is possibly too deep. To
correct, lower the depth regulator lever.

• Possible worn

tiller

worm gear or loose

drive shaft.

21 Key Switch Will Not

Start

The Engine

• Check battery

terminals

for corrosion

(Sect.

5).

• Discharged

battery (Sect.

5).

• Defective solenoid.

42

See Engine Owner's Manual or contactan authorized engine dealer forinfoimation.

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