Metro 4 Series Insulation Armour Plus Hot food Holding Cabinets - Manual (Page 10)

10
BASIC TROUBLESHOOTING
WARNING: Only factory approved service agents should attempt to service, repair or replace electrical components,
wiring or power cord.
1. Controls do not work (no indicator lights):
• Check that the cabinet is plugged-in.
• Check that the outlet has power.
• Check that the power switch is in the “On” position.
• Check the cabinet wiring from the power cord to the power switch and to the thermostat.
2. Temperature too hot:
a. During initial pre-heat, cabinet may overshoot set point.
b. If displayed temperature exceeds 220°F (104°C):
• Blower wiring is faulty or disconnected. Blower needs replacing.
• The thermostat may have failed and the thermal cut-out device is controlling the temperature.
• Thermal cut-out device may have failed.
3. Temperature too low:
a. The cabinet may still be in pre-heat or recovering from the door being opened.
b. Door(s) is not closed or sealing properly.
c. Worn out door gaskets. Replace gaskets.
d. Blower is not circulating air:
• Blower wiring is faulty or disconnected.
4. No heat generated
a. If the heat indicator light is on but the cabinet does not draw approximately 12 amps for 120V 1400W units
• Air heater element may be faulty.
• The wiring to the air heater element may be faulty or disconnected.
• Thermostat may be faulty.
• The thermal cut off may be open or have any disconnected wire coming to it or going from it to the element.
b. If the heat indicator light does not come on, the thermostat may be faulty.
• The hot (BLK) wire may not be connected from the terminal block to the thermostat.
5. Indicator light is not working:
• It is rare that an indicator light will be defective but it is possible. The thermostat contacts may not be closing
and therefore the heater element is not being energized. Check the thermostat and pilot light and their
respective wiring.