Model Shipways 2003 - Manual (Page 13)

13
Running Rigging (Tan Line)
0.008" Dia. Line - Topgallant Sail Clew lines
& Sheets, Fore & Main Topsail Clew Lines,
Topgallant Yard Braces, Fore & Main Gaff
Vangs, & Main Gaff Ensign Halliards.
0.012" Dia. Line - Fore & Main Topsail Yard
Braces & Sheets, All Jackstays, Fore & Main
Sail Clue Garnets, Jib Stay Outhaul Tackle,
Jibboom Guys Tackle, Boom Topping Lifts,
Jib Halliard & Sheets & Downhaul, Jib Stay
Inhaul & Outhaul tackle, & Topgallant Yard
Tye & Halliards.
0.018" Dia. Line - Fore & Main Sail Tacks
& Sheets, Main Boom Sheet, Fore & Main
Topsail Yard Tyes & Halliards, Fore & Main
Yard Truss Tackle, Gaff Peak & Throat Hal-
liards, Lower Fore & Main Yard Braces, &
Anchor Tackle.
0.040" Dia. Line - Anchor Cable.
Blocks - Like the lines, the blocks for running
rigging are not sized on the plan. However,
blocks are sized to suit the line that runs
through their sheaves. The following list sug-
gests the block sizes that should be used with
the line sizes provided:
0.008" Line - Use 3/32" blocks.
0.012" Line - Use 1/8" blocks.
0.018" Line - Use 5/32" blocks.
Long Tackle Blocks - The plans show several
blocks which are long blocks with two sheaves
in line rather than side by side. None are
included in the kit. However, you can glue
two single blocks together end to end to
simulate the block, or simply substitute a
common double block.
Deadeyes - Use the smaller 3/32" Deadeyes
for the Fore & Main Topmast Shrouds, Fore
Topgallant Backstay, & Bowsprit Shrouds.
Use the 5/32" Deadeyes for Fore & Main
Lower Shrouds, Fore Topmast Backstays,
Main Topmast Backstay, & the Bobstay.
3. Rigging Sail Lines
The Dapper Tom model is intended to be
completed with sails removed. However, even
without sails, some of the rigging lines such as
sheets, tacks, halliards, and clew lines are to
remain, along with their lead blocks. Some of
the lines are to be hooked together, such as
the jib halliard and sheets, and yard clew lines
and sheets. The running ends of these lines
should be belayed at their proper locations.
Installing the sail rigging lines on the Dapper
Tom adds tremendously to the look of the
model, especially at the jib stay where the
contrasting black stay and light running lines,
along with their blocks, create interesting
visual detail.
4. Applying Beeswax to the Lines
Before placing the lines on the model, run the
line through a block of beeswax several times.
Then, run the line through your fingers. This
heats the wax slightly and rubs it into the line.
The beeswax will cut down on fuzz and pro-
tect the line from moisture.
5. Seizing the Lines
Seizing of lines (binding or securing two lines
or different parts of the same line) can be
done as shown in Figure F-1. To prevent seiz-
ings from unraveling, add a touch of CA glue.
For seizings, use the 0.008" line in the kit or
sewing thread.
6. Blocks, Strops, & Fittings
Around the time the Dapper Tom was built,
the use of rope for stropping blocks, and for
parrels and slings on yards, was more com-
mon than iron fittings. However, such items
as iron-stropped blocks, hooks, and eyebolts
were available. There is no sure way to deter-
mine exactly what was on the
Dapper Tom.
The details shown in the sketches and plans
illustrate only one of the ways it may have
been done. A block shown lashed into an eye-
bolt could just as likely have been lashed
around the spar without the use of an eyebolt.
A strop is an iron or rope band or grommet
around the shell of a block for attaching lines.
The blocks in the kit are fairly small, so it will
not be easy for you to create the exact detail-
ing. Some modeling shortcuts are in order.
See Figure F-2 for some life-size ship details
and model options.
7. Rigging Tools & Belaying Lines
Figure F-3 illustrates some homemade tools
that are essential aids in the rigging process.
Figure F-4 shows some suggestions for belay-
ing lines to belaying pins and cleats.
A word of advice - Rigging plans are hard to
follow. Lines cross each other and they some-
times go behind something or seem to
disappear into thin air. Before you start the
rigging, get a notebook and do a small sketch
of each rigging line on a separate page. Sketch
in where the lines end, such as at an eyebolt
and label these points. If something seems to
be missing when you view your sketches, seek
help or find the answer in a rigging text (con-
sult the bibliography). Use the final sketches
as you rig the model. You won’t need to crawl
your way through the rigging plan again.
When rigging such items as yards, booms
and gaffs, do as much rigging as possible with
the item in hand before installing the part on
the model. Seize the lines to the part and
FIG. F-1 SEIZINGS
FIG. F-2
BLOCKS,
STROPS,
& FITTINGS
CLOVE HITCH
WRAP
THREAD
HOOK
BECKET
EYEBOLT
LASHING
ROPE STROP
TWIST
WIRE
GLUE
GLUE
LINE OR WIRE
SEIZE &
GLUE
NO HOOK
USING RIGGING LINE
SLIPKNOT & GLUE
CLOVE
HITCH
WITH
THREAD
LOOP
THROUGH
LINE
PULL TIGHT,
GLUE, THEN
CUT-OFF ENDS
SLIP KNOT
TOUCH WITH
CA GLUE
CUT-OFF
END
TUCK UP & GLUE
FAKED ON SMALL BLOCK OR SPAR
MODEL OPTIONS
SHIP
SHIP
MODEL
FOR WRAPPING AROUND
YARDS & MASTS