Stage c: mounting the hull, Creating the ladder way hole, Cutting out the gunports & transom ports – Model Shipways 2003 User Manual

Page 7: Installing bulwark stanchions & cap rail, Installing the outboard waterway strip & wale

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could also install a waterway without cutting
the nibs. Another way, the scored decking
could go into the bulwark, and a thin water-
way glued on top of the decking.

6. Creating the Ladder Way Hole

The ladder way shown on the plan indicates
an open hatch with a ladder. If you want to
do this you must cut a hole into the deck. If
not, the hatch can have covers. The details
will be discussed in Stage D.

7. Cutting Out the Gunports

& Transom Ports

Cut the gunport openings and transom ports
according to plan. Be careful cutting the
gunports. After cutting, the remaining bul-
wark will be fragile until the cap rail is
installed. Use a fine razor saw blade to cut
the vertical sides and then cut the bottom
with a hobby knife.

8. Installing Bulwark Stanchions

& Cap Rail

With the bulwarks in a fragile state, now is
the time to install the cap rail and bulwark
stanchions. Install the stanchions first, then
the cap rail. While you are at it, up forward,
add the inboard side of the stem, knight-
heads and hawse timbers, and drill the hawse
holes. Also, add the doublers in way of the
sheet and tack sheave holes, and the bow

fairlead for rigging lines atop the rail. Drill
the fairlead holes before installation. Figure
B-5 should clarify the details.

9. Installing the Outboard

Waterway Strip & Wale

The waterway on the deck of the real ship is
a wide plank that protrudes outboard just
past the normal hull planking. For our solid
wood hull you need to add a 1/6" square

strip outside the hull port and starboard for
the full length to simulate the outboard edge
of the waterway.
Below the waterway strips add a 1/32" thick
wale strip. The profile view on the plans
show the wale shape. Note that it is wider
forward and tapers to a more narrow plank
aft. See Figure B-6 for a cross section view in
way of the waterway and wale.

Before proceeding with additional work it is
best to mount the hull. This step will help
prevent details from becoming damaged dur-
ing handling and will allow you to make any
alignments that require a true waterline. Prop-
er mounting of the hull is very important and
will allow the accurate building and aligning
of the remainder of the model. The kit does
not include any parts for mounting. However,
the following suggestions are provided.
1. Mounting Board with Two Pedestals -
A common mounting for ship models is a
wooden baseboard with two wooden or brass
pedestals. For a homemade board, a nice
looking hardwood such as cherry, walnut,
and maple would be ideal. You can round
the top edges of the baseboard, or cut a sim-
ple chamfer. If you own a router, or can
borrow one, you will be able to cut a nice
fancy edge on the baseboard. Stain the base,
if necessary, and give it a few coats of varnish
or finish like Minwax.
The pedestals could be wood or brass. One
pedestal needs to be longer than the other
because you should have the model mounted
with the waterline parallel to the baseboard.
If you decide on this type mounting you
should already have drilled pilot holes for the
screws as noted earlier. For Dapper Tom, the
pedestals should be located near station 4
and 7. If something went awry and the
waterline is not level, you can add a brass

shim under one pedestal to correct it.
2. Launching Ways - A second type of
mounting that can be employed is the
launching ways, which are most suitable for
models without sails. Figure C-1 illustrates a
simple design. Drilling of the keel is still
required to insert rods that anchor the model

to the ways. The launching ways should be
mounted on a baseboard or could be placed
in a diorama comprised of boatyard ground
activity.
Baseboards, pedestals, and launching way
kits are available from Model Expo
(www.modelexpo-online.com).

STAGE C: MOUNTING THE HULL

FIG. B-5 BULWARK DETAILS

FIG. C-1 LAUNCHING WAY MOUNTING

ALIGNMENT

PIN OR NAIL

LASER-CUT RAIL

FORWARD

TYPICAL BULWARK

STANCHION

GUNPORT

FRAMING

DOUBLER IN

WAY OF SHEET

& TACK SHEAVE

HOLES

AFT SIDE OF

STEM PIECE

KNIGHTHEAD

HAWSE

TIMBER

LASER-CUT RAIL

RIGGING

FAIRLEAD

BLOCK

PIN

RAIL

CL

CL

CL

CL

BOWSPRIT

HOLE

STRIPWOOD RAIL AFT

WATERLINE

PARALLEL TO BASE

METAL ROD

OR WOOD

DOWEL

IN KEEL

BASE

KEEL BLOCKS

CROSS TIMBERS

SUPPORT
RAIL

SIDE SUPPORT

STRUTS

1/4" SQUARE

WOOD FOR

1/8" - 1/4" SCALE

MODELS

SUPPORT BLOCKS

HEIGHT SET SO MODEL WATERLINE

WILL BE PARALLEL TO BASE

SIDE SUPPORT

STRUTS P/S

ABOUT

1.5 X BEAM

OF HULL

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