Stage d: adding the hull details, Catheads, bulwark sheaves, cavils, & gunport lids, Fig. d-5 gunport lids – Model Shipways 2003 User Manual

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STAGE D: ADDING THE HULL DETAILS

1. General Notes

Don’t forget to file off any flash on Britannia
metal fittings, clean the fittings and then prime
them with grey primer before final paint.
Locate deck fittings and place them into
position. This can be done by measuring
from mast holes, station lines and centerline
(tick off from plans). Next, mark their posi-
tions by drilling holes into the deck and
inserting locating pins or dowels which will
be inserted into holes that you will need to
drill into each deck piece. Before permanent
installation, paint them according to the
Dapper Tom color scheme or your choice of
color. Having been pre-fitted, and with the
pins in place, they will be easy to put back
where they belong.
If wooden parts are not painted prior to
installation, at least make sure you have the
part sanded and ready for painting in place.
Use as little glue as necessary on parts. Watch
out for that glue squeeze-out. It’s hard to
remove if left to harden.

2. Transom Rail, Mouldings,

Counter Detail, & Main Boom

Sheet Rod

The transom rail (or taffrail as it is generally
called) curves both fore and aft and across the
top and sides of the transom so it is best cut
out of a wider piece of stripwood. Some steam
bending may be required at the side corners,
or the side rail portion can be cut to shape
from a wider block.
The transom extends beyond the sides of the
hull. This extension is not a part of the
machine-carved hull, so you first must add
the extension before installing the rails.
On the sides, the rail meets a fashion piece
that curves down to the waterway strip and
wale. Along the bottom of the transom out-
board, add a moulding strip. Figure D-1
should clear up this often confusing area.
Inboard on the counter, there is a a small
block to be added on centerline just forward
of the rudder post opening. This is actually
the top of the sternpost on a real ship. On the
transom, fit the main boom sheet traveler rod
made from wire. See Figure D-2 for a sketch
of the area.

3. Catheads, Bulwark Sheaves,

Cavils, & Gunport Lids

When you installed the bulwark stanchions
earlier, most of the bow timbers and hawse
holes were finished at that time. There are
still a few more details for the bulwarks
unless you got these done while installing the
bulwark stanchions.
The catheads are laser cut parts. Before
installing, drill the holes for the anchor tackle
and add the eyebolts for the jibboom guys
(Figure D-3).

FIG. D-1 TRANSOM RAIL & FASHION PIECE

FIG. D-2 INBOARD STERN DETAIL

FIG. D-3 CATHEADS

FIG. D-4 CAVILS

FIG. D-6 LADDER WAY

TAFFRAIL

SIDE

TAFFRAIL

MOULDING

STRIP

FASHION

PIECE

TRANSOM

EXTENSION

PIECE

JOINT

CAP

RAIL

SIDE

TAFFRAIL

WALE

JOINT

TRANSOM

COUNTER

DECK

DRILL

HOLES

FOR

ANCHOR

TACKLE

EYEBOLTS

FOR

JIBBOOM

GUYS

LASER-CUT

CATHEAD

CLEAT FOR

BELAYING

ANCHOR

TACKLE

THIS SIDE OF

CATHEAD MAY

BE SHAPED TO

FIT FLUSH

AGAINST

BULWARK

CAP RAIL

BULWARK

HOOK TO EYEBOLT ON SIDE OF STANCHION

BOOM SHEET

TRAVELER ROD

JOINT

FASHION

PIECE

TAFFRAIL

CAP RAIL
SIDE TAFFRAIL

FASHION PIECE

WATERWAY STRIP

WATERWAY

STRIP

SECTION THROUGH TRANSOM

OUTBOARD VIEW AT CORNER

SIDE VIEW

TRANSOM

EXTENSION

PIECE

MOULDING

STRIP ALONG

BOTTOM OF

TRANSOM

TAFFRAIL

BLOCK REPRESENTING