Bruce Turlington Lock&Fold - Manual (Page 3)

STEP 3: Laying the Underlayment (Floating Installations)
• Install the underlayment in the same direction that the hardwood flooring is to be installed
(Figure 6).
• Extend the underlayment a few inches up the wall.
• Trim excess prior to installing trim or moldings.
• The floating floor underlayment already has double-sided tape for ease of taping the
precut overlapping seams. If a non-adhesive underlayment is used, tape all seams with
the included tape.
STEP 4: Installing First Row (Floating Installations)
• Select a board to begin installation of the first row using the longest boards available.
• Starting from the LEFT with the tongue facing the wall (Figure 7), carefully place the first
board in place (Figure 8). Use wedges or 1/2″ (13 mm) scrap (Figure 9) along the wall to
hold plank in place while allowing the required expansion space.
• Align the next piece by overlapping the end of the first board so that the joint is tight when
the board lays flat (Figure 10). Some slight adjustment of the board may be necessary to
assure a tight fit.
• Again, place wedges or 1/2″ (13 mm) scrap as necessary to restrain movement and
maintain expansion zone.
• Continue in this manner until the first row is complete.
• Cut the final board to length allowing the necessary expansion zone.
• Place wedges to restrain movement and maintain expansion zone.
• A 1/2” expansion space is required throughout the insallation. Do not attach or pinch the
flooring to the subfloor at any point of the installation including glueing, nailing, or by any
other methods.
• If the wall is not straight, scribe the first board as necessary to maintain alignment.
• Continue to Step 7.
General Information for Glue-Down Installations
• Maximum adhesive working times: Urethane adhesive – 60 minutes; Armstrong
ProConnect Professional Hardwood Flooring Adhesive – 60 minutes. When not in use, keep
the adhesive container tightly closed to prevent thickening. Thickening will cause difficulty
in spreading the adhesive.
• Open times and curing times of ALL adhesives vary dependent upon subfloor porosity, air
movement, humidity and room temperature. Urethane adhesive has a shortened working
time in high humidity environments, whereas the working time for ProConnect and
polymeric resin adhesives will be lengthened. In areas of low humidity, open time will be
longer with urethane adhesives and shorter with ProConnect. Adjust the amount of adhesive
spread on the subfloor accordingly. The adhesive should not be applied if subfloor or room
temperature is below 60°F (16°C). WORKING TIME WILL VARY DEPENDING ON JOB
SITE CONDITIONS.
• Hold trowel at a minimum 45° angle (Figure 11) firmly against the subfloor to obtain a 40-60 ft. 2 (4-5.5 m 2 ) per gallon spread
rate. The trowel will leave ridges of adhesive and very little adhesive between the ridges. This will allow you to still see the chalk
lines between the ridges and provide the recommended spread rate.
• For additional application instructions, follow the recommendations on the adhesive container.
• Proper ventilation within the room must be provided. An electric fan is helpful.
• Rolling is not required, but if desired, do not do so until the adhesive has cured for two hours.
NOTE: DO NOT INSTALL FLOORING USING RUBBER MALLETS. STRIKING THE SURFACE WITH A RUBBER MALLET MAY “BURN” THE
FINISH CAUSING IRREPARABLE DAMAGE.
STEP 5: Spread the Adhesive (Glue-Down Installations)
• Spread sufficient amounts of the recommended adhesive with the recommended trowel (Figure 2) in an area that can be
covered in 60 minutes (see adhesive information).
• If necessary, nail a sacrificial row with 1″ (2.5 cm) nails on the dry side of your chalk line to help hold the first row in place.
NOTE: Avoid installing on the surface of the flooring. If necessary, distribute weight using a kneeler board.
STEP 6: Installing the Floor (Glue-Down Installations)
• Select a board to begin installation of the first row using the longest boards available.
• Starting from the LEFT with the tongue facing the wall, carefully place the first board in place. Use wedges or 1/4″ (6 mm)
scrap (Figures 7, 8, 9) along the wall to hold plank in place while allowing the required expansion space.
• Align the next piece by overlapping the end of the first board so that the joint is tight when the board lays flat (Figure 10). Some
slight adjustment of the board may be necessary to assure a tight fit.
• Again, place wedges or 1/4″ (6 mm) scrap as necessary to restrain movement and maintain expansion zone.
• Continue in this manner until the first row is complete.
• Cut the final board to length allowing the necessary expansion zone.
• Place wedges to restrain movement and maintain expansion zone.
• If the wall is not straight, scribe the first board as necessary to maintain. For random and alternate width products, use the widest
plank for the first row. The first row of planks should be installed with the edge of the groove lined up on the chalk line. The
tongue should be facing the starting wall. The first row must be aligned and seated in the adhesive, as all additional rows will
be pushed back to this original row. Remove tongue to allow for expansion space, if necessary, on the row adjoining the wall.
• During the installation occasionally remove a piece of flooring from the subfloor and inspect the back for proper adhesive
transfer. Adequate adhesive transfer is necessary to ensure sufficient holding strength.
• If the adhesive skins over and fails to transfer, remove and spread new adhesive to achieve proper bonding.
NOTE: Clean adhesive from the surface of the floor frequently, using the recommended adhesive cleaner. Urethane adhesives
become extremely difficult to remove when cured. Do not use 3M Scotch-Blue™ 2080 Tape before adhesive is removed from
the surface. Use clean towels, changed frequently, to prevent haze and adhesive residue.
• Check for a tight fit between all edges and ends of each plank. End-joints of adjacent rows should be staggered 4″-6″ (10-15
cm) when possible, to ensure a more favorable overall appearance (Figure 4).
• To eliminate minor shifting or gapping of product during installation, use 3M Scotch-Blue™ 2080 Tape to hold the planks
together. After installation is complete, remove all of the 3M Scotch-Blue™ 2080 Tape from the surface of the newly installed
flooring. Do not let the tape remain on the flooring longer than 24 hours. Avoid the use of masking or duct tape, which leaves
an adhesive residue and may damage the finish.
• If necessary, use weights to flatten boards with bows until adhesive cures, in order to
prevent hollow spots. Boards that cannot be flattened should be cut in length to reduce
the bow, or not used.
• Be sure not to spread adhesive too far ahead of your work area (Figure 12).
• Complete the installation using this same technique for the remainder of the floor.
• Avoid heavy foot traffic on the floor for at least 24 hours. Lift the furniture or fixtures back
into place after 24 hours.
STEP 7: Installing Remaining Rows (Glue-Down or Floating Installations)
• Begin the second row with the cut piece from the first row. If the cut piece is shorter than 8″ (20 cm) do not use it. Instead,
begin with a new board that exceeds 8″ (20 cm) in length and allows 6″ (15 cm) spacing between the end joints.
3
Figure 6
Groove Tongue
Figure 7
Groove Tongue
Figure 8
Figure 9
Figure 10
45 ˚ -90 ˚
Figure 11
1 2 3
10 11 12
13
4 5 6
7 8 9
Figure 12
• Place the first board in place by angling it up slightly, pushing forward and interlocking the
side tongue (Figure 13). Slide the board to the LEFT as necessary to align the edges of the
end joint.
• Carefully push the board down until tongue and groove lock together on the side and ends
(Figure 14).
• A slight tap with a tapping block may be necessary to complete the interlock.
• Restrain the movement of the board by installing a wedge in the expansion zone.
• Install all remaining boards and rows in the same manner. (Figures 13, 14).
• Cut the last board to size, allowing for the expansion zone, and install as above.
• If necessary, complete the tight fit by tapping the board into place with a pull bar.
• Whenever practical, use cut pieces from previous rows as a starter board to reduce waste.
• Maintain 6″ (15 cm) spacing between end joints after the first four rows for best
appearance (Figure 4).
STEP 8: Installing Final Row (Glue-Down or Floating Installations)
• The last row may need to be cut lengthwise (ripped).
• Place the row of planks to be fit on top of the last row of installed planks. Use a piece of plank as a scribe to trace the contour
of the wall.
• Mark where the board will be cut. If the fit of the wall is simple and straight, just measure for the correct fit and cut.
• After the last row is cut, use the pull bar to tighten the joint.
STEP 9: Installing Under a Door Jamb (Glue-Down or Floating
Installations)
• Installations of locking engineered floors under moldings, such as a door jamb, may require that the top lip of the groove on
the end be reduced in size.
• Using a small plane or knife plane, shave off the ledge off the groove. (Figure 15)
• After the groove edge has been trimmed, place the board into place and tighten with a pull bar to test for fit. The installer must
be certain that the proper expansion space is maintained and the flooring is not pinched.
• If fit is incorrect, trim as necessary.
• Place a bead of recommended wood glue on the bottom lip of the
groove.
• Reinsert the tongue into the groove and tighten the board with a
pull bar. Hold the board in place with painters tape
(3M Scotch-Blue™ 2080 Tape) until the glue is dry. Do not use
masking tape or duct tape, as the finish may be damaged.
STEP 10: Completing the Installation (Glue-Down or Floating Installa-
tions)
• Remove all wedges and tape if used.
• Clean floor with the recommended hardwood flooring cleaner.
• Trim all underlayment and install, or re-install, all base and/or quarter round moldings. Nail moldings into the wall, not the floor.
Inspect the floor, filling all minor gaps with the appropriate blended filler.
• If the floor is to be covered, use a breathable material such as cardboard. Do not cover with plastic.
• Leave warranty and floor care information with the owner. Advise them of the product name and code number of the flooring
they purchased.
• To prevent surface damage, avoid rolling heavy furniture and appliances on the floor. Use plywood, hardboard or appliance lifts
if necessary. Use protective castors/castor cups or felt pads on the legs of furniture to prevent damage to the flooring.
V. TRANSITION AND WALL MOLDINGS
• Reducer Strip: A teardrop-shaped molding used around fireplaces, doorways, as a room divider, or as a transition between
wood flooring and adjacent thinner floor coverings. Fasten down with adhesive, small nails or double-faced tape.
• Threshold: A molding undercut for use against sliding door tracks, fireplaces, carpet, ceramic tile, or existing thresholds to
allow for expansion space and to provide a smooth transition in height difference. Fasten to subfloor with adhesive and/or nails
through the heel. Pre-drill nail holes to prevent splitting.
• Stair Nosing: A molding undercut for use as a stair landings trim, elevated floor perimeters, and stair steps. Fasten down firmly
with adhesive and nails or screws. Pre-drill nail holes to prevent splitting.
• Quarter Round: A molding used to cover expansion space next to baseboards, case goods, and stair steps. Pre-drill and nail
to the vertical surface, not into the floor.
• Combination Base and Shoe: A molding used when a base is desired. Used to cover expansion space between the floor and
the wall. Pre-drill and nail into the wall, not the floor.
• T-Molding: A molding used as a transition piece from one rigid flooring to another of similar height or to gain expansion
spaces. Fasten at the heel in the center of the molding. Additional rigid support may need to be added to the heel of the molding
dependent upon the thickness of the goods covered. Do not use this molding as a transition to carpet.
INSTALLERS – ADVISE YOUR CUSTOMER OF THE FOLLOWING
Seasons: Heating and Non-heating
Recognizing that hardwood floor dimensions will be slightly affected by varying levels of humidity within your building, care
should be taken to control humidity levels within the 35-55% range. To protect your investment and to assure that your floors
provide lasting satisfaction, we have provided our recommendations below.
• Heating Season (Dry): A humidifier is recommended to prevent excessive shrinkage in hardwood floors due to low humidity
levels. Wood stoves and electric heat tend to create very dry conditions.
• Non-Heating Season (Humid, Wet): Proper humidity levels can be maintained by use of an air conditioner, dehumidifier, or
by turning on your heating system periodically during the summer months. Avoid excessive exposure to water from tracking
during periods of inclement weather. Do not obstruct in any way the expansion joint around the perimeter of your floor.
NOTE: Final inspection by the end-user should occur from a standing position.
FLOOR REPAIR
Minor damage can be repaired with a Bruce ® or Armstrong ® touch-up kit or filler. Major damage will require board replacement,
which can be done by a professional floor installer.
Figure 13
Figure 14
Glue
Shave
off
Figure 15
Reducer Strip Threshold Stair Nosing Quarter Round Combination
Base and Shoe T-Molding