Banks Power Cummins Motorhomes: (Diesel ’93 - 98 B5.9L & C8.3L) Power Systems- Stinger system 8.3L, 250-325-hp rated Class-A Pusher MH User Manual

Page 4

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Install the center bearing and compressor assembly

into the new turbine housing supplied. Apply a dab of

anti-seize compound to the bolts, then install bolts, clamp
plates, and lock plates finger tight to allow for final positioning.

Remove the exhaust outlet adapter from the rear of
the original turbine housing. Clamp the exhaust inlet

flange of the new turbine housing in a bench vise. Using
the new gasket provided install the turbo exhaust outlet
adapter casting to the new turbine housing with five 8mm x
20mm metric hex bolts. Apply a dab of anti-seize
compound to the bolts, then torque the bolts to 11.3N-m
(100 in-lbs.). Make sure the turbine inlet flange does not
rotate in the vise while torquing.

TURBOCHARGER INSTALLATION

Install a new turbo exhaust inlet gasket provided

and apply a dab of anti-seize compound to the four

turbo mounting studs. Install the turbocharger on the
exhaust manifold. Tighten the turbocharger mounting nuts
to 32N-m (24 ft.lbs.) torque.

Align the compressor outlet with the intercooler hose

adapter and tighten the clamp. Tighten the turbine

housing clamp plate bolts to 11.3N-m (100 in-lb.) torque.

Spin the turbocharger shaft to make sure it turns freely.

If not, loosen the turbine clamp plate bolts and check

for misalignment between the turbine housing and
turbocharger center section. Retighten bolts and check again.

Use the new gasket provided to connect the
turbocharger oil drain tube to the turbocharger.

Make sure the turbocharger oil drain flange is clean and
free of any old gasket material. Tighten the drain flange
bolts to 24N-m (18 ft.lbs.) torque.

NOTE: If the bolts

encounter excessive resistance prior to seating against the
flange, check for paint build up in the threads of the turbo
bearing housing. The threads may need to be chased with
an 8mm x 1.25 metric tap.

Reconnect and tighten the turbo oil supply hose.

BOOST GAUGE INSTALLATION

Choose a suitable location under the lower edge of

the dash panel for mounting the instrument panel

provided where it can be conveniently viewed by the driver.

NOTE: Molded instrument consoles for top-of-dash
mounting and additional gauges are available through
Gale Banks Engineering.

Using the panel as a template, drill two

3

16

" diameter

holes in the dash and mount the panel with two no.

10 x

1

2

" machine screws, nuts and star washers provided.

If the intake manifold has an

1

8

" NPT plug, remove it

and install the

1

8

" NPT male x

1

8

" compression tube

adapter at this location. Otherwise use the

1

2

x

1

8

" NPT

bushing and install the bushing and adapter in the intake
manifold in place of an existing

1

2

" pipe plug.

Install one end of the

1

8

" diameter plastic tube

provided in the nut and ferrule adapter fitting and

tighten the nut. Check that the plastic tube cannot be pulled
out of the ferrule, but do not over-tighten the nut. See

Figure 3

.

Install the boost gauge in the gauge panel using the

clamps and thumb nuts provided. Install the

1

8

" NPT

female x

1

8

" compression tube adapter fitting onto the

connection at the back of the gauge. Use Teflon tape or
sealant on the male threads of the gauge nipple. Use
sealant sparingly, and do not allow any sealant to cover
the small pin-sized hole in the end of the gauge nipple.

Route the plastic tube along one framerail of the

coach. Find an opening in the forward bulkhead to

route the tube into the driver’s compartment. It may be
necessary to drill a

3

8

" hole. Route the tube to the gauge

then cut the tube to length. Insert the tube into the nut and
ferrule on the adapter fitting at the gauge, then tighten the
nut against the tube and ferrule. Do not overtighten.

Uncoil the leadwire cable provided with the

pyrometer gauge kit. As a precaution to improper

gauge function, re-crimp the ring terminals on the wires at the
probe, after sliding an insulating sleeve onto each of the wires
at this end of the cable. Check that the two red wires are
connected together, and likewise the yellow wires, and that
screws are tight. Slide the insulating sleeves over each
connection and check that connections cannot short together.
Wrap electrical tape over the sleeves for additional insulation.

Route the leadwire along the same path as the

boost hose. Coil any excess length and secure it

with tie wraps. DO NOT cut the leadwire to shorten it. The
pyrometer is calibrated to operate with the predetermined
length provided.

29.

28.

27.

26.

25.

24.

23.

22.

21.

20.

19.

18.

17.

16.

15.

FIGURE 3

4

P.N. 96381

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