PerTronix JBA Exhaust 1815S - Manual (Page 2)

PerTronix © thanks you for choosing JBA HEADERS, the best fitting, highest quality header on the mar-
ket. In order to realize the full potential of our good fit, please read and understand these instructions
completely prior to starting work.
Check to make sure you received the proper parts for your application. The header number will be
stamped on the engine flange. If you are unsure you have received the proper parts call before you start
work.
Be sure to work safe! Whenever you work under the vehicle be sure that it is located on level, solid
ground and is supported by adequate safety stands! Remember: Hot asphalt will not support most jack
stands!
Many factors affect the installation of headers, some of which are broken or aftermarket motor mounts,
accidents that impact the configuration of the frame, and/or the installation of different engines or after-
market cylinder heads.
Attention Customers breaking in new engines: Due to the extreme heat generated during the break-in
process, the appearance of the ceramic coating may be altered in certain areas. The protection character-
istics and thermal barrier properties of the coating is never compromised. It is recommended that a cast
iron manifold or old set of headers be used for this process.
Notice: The coating of these headers can be marred or scratched during installation. If the header needs
to be returned and is damaged, you will be charged for recoat.
JBA uses sealing beads on all its headers. We have found that when installed correctly, the raised bead around
each port increases the pressure exerted on the gasket directly adjacent to the port and effectively prevents leak-
ing gaskets. It is normal for the flange to be raised off the cylinder head the thickness of the sealing bead. It is
important when installing the header, to install all bolts loosely, then tighten evenly to ensure the flat installation
of the flange. The torque sequence from one flange to another will vary, but generally every bolt on a header
should be first fit snug, starting from the inside of the flange working out, alternating from top to bottom so
that the bolt connects the flange to the manifold to the point where they barely touch. Second, using the same
inside-out pattern, tighten each bolt until finished. This method will help prevent leakage and will give the user
the best possible performance out of their pair of headers.
1. Place vehicle in a location where the floor is solid and flat, with adequate lighting. Do not attempt to work on a hot
engine. Heat causes metal to expand and makes removal of fasteners difficult at best. If necessary, raise the front of the ve-
hicle to obtain adequate access to the bottom exhaust manifold flanges. Use large-base jack stands to support the vehicle.
Do not rely on the jack! Block the tires to prevent the vehicle from rolling off the jack stands.
2. Disconnect the Negative battery cable from the battery. Apply penetrating oil on all accessible fasteners and fittings
before attempting to remove them.
3. Unbolt the factory headpipes from the stock exhaust manifolds.
4. Disconnect the spark plug wires from head, by grasping and gently twisting the spark plug wire boots. DO NOT PULL
ON THE WIRES. Unbolt plug wire loom brackets from head and set aside. Remove the plug wire bracket from the back
of the compressor, they will not be reinstalled.
5. On the driver’s side, remove three screws to move ASR box. Release tension and remove the serpentine belt. Remove
bolts from back of alternator and A/C compressor, and loosen bolt on intake manifold. Remove four bolts holding A/C
compressor in position to gain access to bolt holding brace to bracket. Remove braces bolted to exhaust manifold. Remove
the A. I. R. tube from the manifold. Remove the bolts holding the exhaust manifold to the head. Remove the manifold.