Bevel lock lever, Table clamps, Operation – Craftsman 315.220380 User Manual

Page 49: Making a compound cross cut

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OPERATION

In this cut, both the blade and the arm are angled. Be

familiar with both bevel and miter cuts before making

a compound cut. Practice on scrap wood.

A WARNING:

Make sure the blade guard is

lowered and is working properly to prevent
possible injury. Always raise the clear plastic
guard before changing the bevel or lowering the
blade to avoid damage to the guard.

A WARNING:

Keep one hand on the handle until

the blade stops rotating to prevent the risk of

injury.

■ Put the fence in the front position (next to the front

table) and tighten the table clamps.

■ Check that the control cut device is set for the

correct speed for the type of wood and cut you are
planning. Refer to the chart on the label and adjust
the thumbwheel on the handle accordingly.

■ If the yoke is not in the cross cut position with the

blade parallel to the arm, release the yoke lock
handle and position the yoke correctly with the yoke
pivot latch on the right side of the arm.

■ If the arm is too low or too high, first lift the blade

guard if the arm is too low, and turn the elevating

handwheel at the front of the table. Set the blade to

just clear the kerf or table.

■ To set the angle of the arm, release the arm lock

knob on top of the arm. Use the miter scale above

the column to position it to the desired angle, and

lock the arm lock knob.

■ To set the blade angle, first raise the plastic lower

guard. Release the bevel lock lever, and position

the blade with the bevel index lever.

■ Retighten the bevel lock lever. :

Note: For a 45' or 90' angle, the bevel index lever will

seat automatically at the preset positive stop
positions. For any other angle, use the bevel
lock lever.

MAKING A COMPOUND CROSS CUT

See

Figure 45.

BEVELED AND

MITERED CUT

ELEVATING

HANDWHEEL

If the yoke is in front of the fence, loosen the
carriage lock knob on the left side of the arm.

Release the switch trigger on the handle and let the

carriage return to the back.

If there is no kerf, cut one approximately 1/16 in.

deep. Grasp the handle. Turn the saw on with the
switch on the arm. Squeeze the switch trigger and
puli the blade forward to make the kerf.

Release the switch trigger and let the carriage
return to the back. Turn the saw off with the switch

on the arm but hold the handle until the blade stops

rotating. Adjust the height with the elevating
handwheel so the blade will rotate freely in the kerf.

Position the workpiece against the fence. Place the

pawls and riving knife to clear the workpiece or the
fence, whichever is higher, by at least 1/4 inch.

Grasp the handle with one hand. With the other

hand, turn the saw on, then hold the workpiece

down and against the fence. If necessary, slightly

raise the outer blade guard for clearance. Keep

your hand well away from the blade.

Squeeze the switch trigger and pull the blade

through the workpiece but only far enough to

complete the cut. Keep your hand on the handle,
even after the cut has been made and the saw
turned off, until the blade stops rotating.

After completing the cut, move the workpiece to the
side and turn off the saw with the switch on the
arm. Release the switch trigger and let the yoke

move back behind the fence. Do not release the
handle until the blade stops rotating.

MITER SCALE

ARM

LOCK KNOB

YOKE

PIVOT LATCH

YOKE LOCK

HANDLE

BEVEL LOCK

LEVER

TABLE

CLAMPS

Fig. 45

CRAFTXMPir

RADIAL SAW 315.22(m0

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