Great Planes PT-60 Kit - GPMA0119 User Manual

Page 20

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D 8. Locate the remaining piece of 1/2" balsa tri-stock and
cut two 7" pieces from it These will be used to reinforce the
fin Hold the 1/2" dimension of both pieces together (back-
to-back), then shape both parts simultaneously as shown in
the photo and on the plans

D 9 Use thick CA to glue the shaped fin reinforcements
to the stab and fin Sand the front half of the fin
reinforcement to blend with the f u s e top Also, add
lightweight balsa filler to blend the stab to the fuse top.

D 10. Temporarily install the elevator and rudder with a
couple of hinges but still without using any glue Test their
operation If necessary, trim the LE of the rudder (where
shown in the photo) to clear the elevator by 1/16" Mark the
rudder s bottom hinge location on the fuse Remove the
rudder, then carefully cut the slit for the hinge in the tail end of

the fuse Reattach the rudder to check the hinge alignment

Hang in there You only have to build the wing before you

start covering

Building the wing for the PT-60 is pure fun Even if this is

your first kit you won t have any trouble building a beautiful
wing that is true The secret is not to use any glue until
instructed to do so.
You will soon see that the structure

just about holds itself together without any help, giving you
the opportunity to make sure that everything fits perfectly

before making an 'irreversible oops

1

We mentioned at the front of this manual that you have a
choice in the type of wing to build — trainer or sport If this

is your first R/C model, we strongly (read that STRONGLY)
recommend that you build the trainer version Aside from

the fact that you will need to make some of your own parts
to build the sport wing, you will also lose the full benefit of
the self-recovery features of this model — features that will
help you solo faster and more safely Nuf said

D 1 Carefully press out all the die-cut 3/32" balsa wing
ribs, R-1
through R-5 and the die cut 1/8" balsa wing tips,
R-6
Remove any die-cutting fuzz by lightly sanding each
part with 220-grit sandpaper.

D 2 Locate two R-2 ribs and two R-3 ribs Hold an R-2
and R 3 rib together and you will notice that the R-2 rib is
longer and narrower than R-3 Without gluing, align the die-
cut "lightening holes and spar notches then look at the rear

section of the ribs The R-2 rib should be inside the R-3 rib
by 3/32", along the top and bottom edges, from the spar
notches back

D 3 Use thin CA to glue only one set together but make
sure they are properly aligned before applying the CA.
Position the second R-3 rib on your workbench exactly as

shown — with both of the straight edges touching Glue the
other R-2 rib in position on top of R-3 with thin CA. The

object of this fussy way of doing this simple operation is to

be certain that you make one right and one left pair of ribs.

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