Great Planes PT-60 Kit - GPMA0119 - Manual (Page 6)

Accelerator is a liquid chemical that
comes in a spray bottle for use in
speeding up the cure time of all CA
types. It should be misted on, not
sprayed heavily on the joint. Accelerator
may cause exposed CA to bubble and
sometimes change color. A drawback to
accelerator is that the CA cures before it
has time to fully penetrate the wood, so
it should only be used sparingly-when
absolutely necessary.
Epoxy
Great Planes has two Epoxy formulations available for the
modeler. Both offer exceptional strength and convenient
working times. Use epoxy when the joint requires
exceptional strength, such as when installing the firewall,
when joining the wing panels, and when installing wing
hold-down blocks. As with most epoxies, you mix equal
parts of resin and hardener, stir well, then apply a thin film
to each part. Parts should be clamped, pinned, taped or
weighted in place until fully cured. Before the epoxy cures,
clean off any excess with a paper towel. A word of caution
about mixing epoxy-don't use extra hardener in the
hopes of making the mixture harder or work faster. Just
about all epoxies work best with exactly a 50/50 mix. When
you increase the amount of hardener you run the risk of
causing the cured epoxy to become either brittle or
rubbery-neither being as strong as a properly mixed batch.
6-Minute epoxy is used
for simple, small gluing
a p p l i c a t i o n s - w h e r e
elaborate alignment is not
required. Working time
(before it's too gooey to
use) is about 5 minutes,
handling time 15 minutes
and it's fully cured in about
1 hour.
30-minute epoxy is used for
extra strength (because it
can penetrate longer) and
where several parts must be
aligned and checked before it
cures. Working time is about
25 minutes, handling time
2 hours, and it's fully cured in
8 hours.
Great Planes Pro Wood Glue is an Aliphatic resin glue
that works well on all types of wood. It is non-toxic, virtually
odorless, and dries clear. Some people are sensitive to the
fumes and sanding dust caused by CA, so this is a good
alternative for general modeling use. Its only drawback is
that it is slow to cure, requiring the parts to be securely
clamped, pinned or taped while the glue dries.
Okay, you've got your work space ready, your tools are at
hand, and you know how to choose and use the right glue
for the job. Let's get started!
D 1. Unroll the plan sheets. Reroll the plans inside out to
make them lie flat.
D 2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do, figure out
the name of each part by comparing it with the plans and
the parts list included with this kit. Using a felt tip or ball
point pen, lightly write the part name or size on each piece
to avoid confusion later. Use the die-cut patterns shown on
pages 7 and 8 to identify the die-cut parts and mark them
before removing them from the sheet. Save all scraps. If
any of the die-cut parts are difficult to punch out, do not
force them! Instead, cut around the parts with a hobby
knife. After punching out the die-cut parts, use your T-Bar
or sanding block to lightly sand the edges to remove any
die-cutting irregularities.
D 3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate them
into groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin, stab
(stabilizer) and hardware.
Zipper-top food storage bags are handy to store your
parts as you sort, identify and separate them into
sub-assemblies.
6