Appendix a: troubleshooting – Troy-Bilt 12204-10HP User Manual

Page 45

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Appendix A: Troubleshooting

• Hardware holding tine holders to tine shaft

may be missing or broken. To check,
remove holders (Sect. 5).

• Key for bronze worm gear on tine attach­

ment main drive shaft may be missing or
broken.

5 Tines Turn, But Wheels Won’t:

• Check operation of Wheel Speed Lever

(Problem 2).

• Hi-Pro key inside wheel clutch may be

missing, broken. If so, clutch will not turn

wheel shaft.
• FAST and SLOW speed wheel gears may

be worn. If only one gear Is worn, there will
only be one wheel speed.

• Worm gear that drives pinion shaft and

pinion gears may be worn.

• FAST and SLOW speed pinion gears may

be worn. If only one gear is worn, there will
only be one wheel speed.

• Drive “dogs” on sides of wheel clutch may

be worn or broken. If only one side of clutch
is affected, there will only be one wheel
speed.

6 Wheels And Tines Turn On Top Of
Ground, But Stop Or Hesitate In Soil;

• Drive belt may be loose (Sect. 5).
• Mounting bolt for transmission drive pulley

may be loose (Figure 5-1).

7 Tiller Jumps While Tilling:

• Depth Regulator Lever set too deep for soil

conditions. Use a shallower setting.

• Engine throttle speed too fast.
• Tiller wheel speed too fast for soil condi­
tions. Change to LOW belt range or SLOW

wheel speed.

8 Depth Regulator Lever
Difficult To Move:

• Lubricate spring assembly and depth

adjustment bar (Sect. 5).

• Check for bent depth adjustment bar.

9 Wheel And Shaft Move
Out To One Side;

• Snap ring on wheel shaft may be
dislodged. Raise wheels off ground and
check for back and forth play in shaft. If
there is play, one or both snap rings is loose.

10 Tiller Pulls To One Side;

• Check tire pressure (Sect. 5).

11 Tine Holder Bolt
Breaks Or Loosens:

• Earlier models have tine holder keys.

Check that keys are in keyways of tine shaft.
Without key in holder, left-side tine bolt will
tighten and break; right-side bolt will loosen
(Sect. 5).

12 Poor Traction:

• Bar tread tires, tire chains, or wheel
weights may be needed.

13

Gear Oil Leak From Power Unit Or Tine

Attachment Transmissions:

• See Section 5.

14 Engine Lacks Power:

• *Air cleaner restricted with dirt and/or oil.

• Spark plug wire loose or damaged. Spark

plug worn or fouled.

• Engine under excessive work load. Use
SLOW wheel speed and LOW belt range.

• *Throttle cable may be loose or misad-
justed.

• Verify that engine isn’t running with choke

partially engaged.

• *Check Carburetor adjustment.

• * Engine overheating. Check oil level and

clean cooling fins. Oil may be very dirty. Let
hot engine cool before restarting.

• *Dirt or water in fuel or fuel system.

• Engine crankcase low in oil, or overfilled
with oil. Check and adjust level.

• *Low engine compression.

15 Engine Difficult To Start:

• Wheels/Tines/PTO Drive Lever not in

NEUTRAL position.

Fuel tank low or empty.

*Dirt or water in fuel or fuel system.

*Fuel line is restricted.

*Choke control not set properly.

*Spark plug worn or fouled (weak spark).

*Air cleaner restricted with dirt and/or oil.

*Throttle cable adjustment.

Engine throttle lever not free to move

through its full operating range.

® Throttle wire and its linkage are binding, or

are bent and not free to move.

• Low engine compression.

16 Engine Won’t Start:

» See Troubleshooting the

Forward Interlock

Safety System

in Section 5.

• Wheels/Tines/PTO Drive Lever not in

NEUTRAL position.

• Fuel tank low or empty. Or fuel line

restricted or clogged.

• *Choke control improperly set.

• *Water or dirt in fuel, and /or fuel system.

• *Spark plug fouled or worn. Spark plug
wire loose or damaged.

• *Carburetor may need adjustment.

• *Air filter clogged with oil or dirt.

• Carburetor float faulty (or float valve

leaking)- if so, tap side of bowl lightly with
handle of screwdriver (or similar object).

• Stale fuel clogs carburetor, and valves.

Drain old fuel and add new fuel.

• *Fuel tank shut-off valve (if so equipped)

not in fully Open position.

• On Briggs & Stratton engine, On/Off switch

not in ON position.

Electric Start Engines Only:

• Electrical connections loose or shorted to

metal frames, brackets or covers (Sect. 5).

• Battery discharged (Sect. 5).
• Electric starter motor faulty.

17 Engine Shuts Off When Wheels/
Tines/PTO Drive Lever Is In Forward:

• See

Troubleshooting the Forward Interlock

Safety System

in Section 5.

• Short in key switch or key switch wire

harness.

• Check starter motor mounting bolts for

looseness. Have Authorized Engine Service
Dealer inspect the starter motor.

• Check oil level for correct amount.

18 Engine Overheats

• Clean the engine cooling fins, shroud and
covers (Sect. 5).
• Check for broken flywheel fins (under

engine shroud). See Authorized Engine
Dealer.

19 Engine Runs Erratically:

• Water or dirt in gasoline or carburetor.
• Carburetor may need adjustment. See

Engine Owner’s Manual.

• *Spark plug fouled or dirty. Sparkplug
wire loose or damaged.
• ‘Loose or cracked carburetor.
• Governor linkage not adjusted properly or

binding. See Authorized Engine Service
Dealer. Don’t attempt to repair by yourself.

• Check pan gasket, engine seals and drain

plugs for leaks. See your Authorized Engine
Service Dealer.

20 Engine Runs Well,
But Labors Under Tiller Load

• ‘Check governor linkage for freedom of

movement.

• Check throttle setting and carburetor

adjustment. See Engine Owner’s Manual.
• Tilling depth is possibly too deep. To

correct, lower the depth regulator lever.
• Possible worn tiller worm gear or loose

drive shaft.

21 Key Switch Will Not
Start The Engine

• Check battery terminals for corrosion

(Sect. 5).

• Discharged battery (Sect. 5).

• Defective solenoid.

See Engine Owner's Manual or contact an authorized engine dealer for information.

45

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