Foredom Safety Instructions for Using - Manual (Page 5)

It will be necessary to adjust the SPM and
the degree of impact depending on the
size of bead to be created and the hard-
ness of the metal you are working with.
Try different settings to find which works
best for you on a particular jewelry piece.
For removing the metal around the beads
and for general excavating work, a #3
onglette graver (see Illustration No. 6) is
most commonly used. This graver is
prepared the same way as the #52 round
with a 2mm high tip and a 20mm long
taper. A 45° face angle is used, but with
the addition of a slight angle (8°–10°) to
the right or left side depending on the
application of the graver. The forward
edge of this angle will work like a chisel,
allowing the metal to peel off to the
opposite side for ease of removal.
(See Illustration No. 9.)
A higher speed (2,400–2,800 SPM) is
recommended for this procedure. A lighter
impact setting will also give you more
control around the beads and stones. The
point of the graver needs to be set in the
metal before activating the on/off switch.
Don’t push, let the handpiece
do the work for you.
peak (see Illustration 10, Fig. C), back
approximately 1/4
″ (6mm) from the face.
Use a small hand held grinding wheel in
your flexible shaft power tool for
this procedure.
The advantage of bright cutting the
surfaces around the beads and stones is
to eliminate the need to polish these
surfaces and thus wearing away (polishing
off) the beads holding the stones.
Polishing the Cutting Surface –
To create a polished cutting surface you
use a small piece of polishing or emery
paper (#4/0 or #6/0) approximately 2
″x 2″
(50mm x 50mm); a small piece of
smooth, hard paper (such as a business
card) and jeweler’s rouge (such as a yel-
low rouge). After establishing the graver
angles described above and with the
graver still mounted in the adjustable
handle, place the face of the graver on
the polishing paper at the same angles
and pull (draw) the graver across the
paper. The polishing paper and the hard
paper need to be placed on a very hard,
flat surface (glass or polished stone) to
support them. This procedure will
remove (polish) the oil stone marks
from the surface. A couple of drops of
light oil on the polishing paper will cre-
ate an even smoother surface. Prepare
the piece of hard paper by rubbing a
light coat of the yellow rouge on a
small area.
Repeat the same procedure of pulling
(drawing) the graver across the
prepared paper to remove the polishing
paper marks. This will produce a
smooth, polished surface on the graver
cutting surface.
After preparing the #40 flat graver, and
inserting it in the handpiece chuck, set
the dial control to a 2600-2800 SPM
setting. This speed and a light impact
Illustration No. 8
Helpful Hint By guiding the tool
instead of pushing it as you must do
with a beading tool in a handle, you
have much more control of the opera-
tion. You will not get tired and thus, lose
your “feel” for the work. And, there is
far less chance of slipping and damaging
the metal or a stone.
Illustration No. 9
8 ° - 10 °
Bright Cutting with the
PowerGraver Handpiece
For bright cutting or the final finishing
of a setting use a flat graver like the
#40 included in the K.2293 kit (see
Illustration No. 6).
Preparing the #40 flat graver is a little
different from the other gravers. After
preparing the tang end and cutting it to
length, grind the same 2mm high by
20mm long taper to the graver (see
Illustration 5, Fig. B page 5). Then use the
bench oil stone to establish the following
surfaces. First, a “foot” needs to be
created on the bottom of the graver. This
foot raises the bottom of the graver off
the working surface and provides neces-
sary clearance around the beads and
adjoining surfaces. Place the graver in a
handle or a graver sharpening fixture.
Place the graver bottom flat on the oil
stone, raise the handle/fixture 10°–15°
to create a foot approximately 1mm long.
(See Illustration 10, Fig. A). The face of the
graver is then sharpened at a 45° angle
to the foot of the graver. (See Illustration
10, Fig. B.)
Additional clearance for working around
the beads and stone can be gained by
grinding the top of the graver tip to a
Helpful Hint The secret to successful
bright cutting is polishing all cutting
surfaces of the graver. A polished cutting
surface will create a “Bright Cut”.
An unpolished cutting surface will
create a dull cut.
Fig. A
Fig. B
1-2mm
Fig. C
Peak
1/4
″ (5mm)
Illustration No. 10
Helpful Hint Lubricating the graver tip
is recommended for all graver work and
especially bright cutting. Polished
(bright cutting) gravers require liberal
lubrication to keep the metal being cut
from sticking to the graver and keep the
graver sharper longer. Lubricate your
gravers with oil of wintergreen. Place
a piece of cotton in a small glass or
metal dish and saturate it with oil of
wintergreen. Touch the cutting edge of
the graver frequently to the oil while
using it.
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