Foredom Safety Instructions for Using - Manual (Page 6)

setting will create the smoothest cuts.
Remember, the “Bright Cutting” tool is
used for the final finished cut and is not
meant for heavy removal or
excavating work.
Doing Channel and
Hammer (Gypsy) Work
with the PowerGraver
For channel setting the professional jewel-
er will find the PowerGraver an invaluable
tool. By selecting the appropriate graver,
the PowerGraver can be used to cut a
bearing or clean up an existing one. The
anvil or hammer tip in the PowerGraver
handpiece can be used to fold (hammer)
the metal down around the sides of the
stone. (Prongs and bezels can also be
turned over a stone with the anvil point.)
By using the controlled power of the
PowerGraver, the setter will find that the
work becomes less fatiguing while quality
and production go up.
For maximum striking power it is
recommended that the SPM be set at
2200-2400 with the impact adjustment
ring set at hard. Be sure that the work-
piece is held very securely on a solid base
to achieve maximum movement or “flow”
of the metal. Experiment with a similar
piece of metal to determine the best
speed and impact.
Surface Texturing with
the PowerGraver
Florentine (Italian) Finish –
The PowerGraver works very well for
doing florentine finishes by providing
controlled power that can be started and
stopped instantly with the on/off switch.
The elimination of the need to “push”
through the first set of lines gives the
operator the control that produces quality
work. The lining gravers used for this fin-
ish are modified and sharpened in the
same manner as regular gravers.
Pavé and other
Decorative Work –
The PowerGraver will accept a variety of
texturing points including the carbide
point provided in the K.2293 kit and the
Pavé diamond point. This is an application
where the handpiece should be held like a
dart or a pencil. Remember to check the
angle of the duplex spring when texturing
to avoid using it with a sharp bend.
Engraving and Carving
Preparation and Maintenance
of Gravers –
Many gravers are used for engraving and
carving but the most common are the
bevel and square gravers. A #2 bevel
graver is included in the K.2293 kit.
Preparing the graver is similar to prepar-
ing them for bead setting and bright
cutting. After grinding in the 2mm high by
20mm long taper on the front (cutting)
end of the graver, a “foot” needs to be
put on the bottom (or belly) of the graver
with a 10°-15° angle (see Illustration
No. 10, Fig. A) from the working surface
to provide clearance so the graver bottom
doesn’t drag across the surrounding
surface. This foot should be about 1/16
″
(1–1.5mm) long. By hand or by using a
graver sharpening fixture, re-sharpen the
face at a 45° angle to the foot of the
graver, (see Illustration No. 10, Fig. B). The
45° face, as viewed from the side of the
graver should also have a slight angle
(See Illustration 9) to the right or left
depending on application. A face angled
to the left, with the forward edge being
on the right will allow for straight line
engraving and also for making clean
curves to the left. A graver set up with a
face angled to the right with the forward
edge to the left will allow for straight line
engraving and curves to the right. A bevel
graver can also be set up with no face
angle (or at 90° to the gravers’ sides), but
this is not advisable since it has the ten-
dency to push the metal being removed
directly in front of the graver. This creates
an unnecessary load that makes the
graver difficult to move and control.
The bevel graver’s cutting surfaces should
now be polished smooth as described on
page 5 in “Polishing the Cutting Surface”.
The polishing not only provides a nice
bright cut, but also the smooth surface
of the graver will move through the
metal with less resistance than an
unpolished graver.
Remember to use a lubricant (oil of
wintergreen) on the graver tip. The graver
tip should be lubricated after every cut
while engraving. The lubricant will help
the graver cut and also keeps the metal
being engraved from sticking to the
graver’s cutting surfaces. Even while using
a lubricant some residue from the metal
being cut may adhere to the graver. If
allowed to build up this residue will take
the “edge” off the graver by rounding off
the cutting edge. To remove this residue
draw (pull) the graver across the rouged
hard paper at the established angles. For
thicker deposits it may be necessary to go
back to the polishing paper and then the
rouge paper. Maintaining the polished
surfaces of the graver is essential for
creating quality engraving.
Good Engraving Techniques –
For most metals and most engraving
procedures a high 2600-2800 SPM is
recommended with a light to medium
impact setting. These settings will provide
a smooth continuous cut without choppy
or hammering marks. The faster the SPM
the smoother the cut.
To start a cut, place the tip (point) of
the graver into the metal. This can be
accomplished by holding the graver at a
30°– 45° angle to the working surface,
then exerting a little downward pressure
on the graver tip while making a slight
twisting motion with your hand. Lower
your hand and the graver with the point
still in the metal until the foot of the
graver is almost parallel to the surface.
Make sure the point of the bevel graver
is at the absolute bottom. Don’t push.
Apply only enough pressure to
maintain the graver in the metal.
Now start the PowerGraver using the
on/off foot switch. Immediately (as soon
as the graver starts to move) lower the
graver angle until the bottom surface of
the foot (at the 10°–15° angle) is parallel
with the surface. The graver will maintain
the depth throughout the cut. If you want
to make a deeper cut, raise your hand
(graver angle) until the desired depth is
reached, then level off the graver again as
it moves forward. To make a shallower
cut, lower your hand (graver angle) until
the desired depth is reached, then level
off the graver.
For deeper cutting or for working with
harder metals, it may be necessary to
increase the impact adjustment to a
harder impact. Experiment to find the
setting that works best.
So far we’ve described how to cut a
straight, fine line (thread line). Other cuts
can be make with the bevel graver. To cut
a wider line, immediately after starting
and determining the desired depth, rotate
your hand (graver) slightly to introduce
the side of the graver face into the metal,
not just the point. This will create a wider
line (shade line). (See Illustration No. 11.)
The further the graver is rotated the wider
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