Milwaukee Tool 6394 - Manual (Page 5)

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the blade to climb out of the kerf and jump back
toward the operator.
Kickback is the result of saw misuse and/or incor-
rect operating procedures or conditions and can
be avoided by taking proper precautions as given
below:
• Maintain a fi rm grip with both hands on the
saw and position your arms to resist kickback
forces. Position your body to either side of the
blade, but not in line with the blade. Kickback
could cause the saw to jump backwards, but kick-
back forces can be controlled by the operator, if
proper precautions are taken.
• When blade is binding, or when interrupting
a cut for any reason, release the trigger and
hold the saw motionless in the material until
the blade comes to a complete stop. Never at-
tempt to remove the saw from the work or pull
the saw backward while the blade is in motion
or kickback may occur. Investigate and take
corrective actions to eliminate the cause of blade
binding.
• When restarting a saw in the workpiece, centre
the saw blade in the kerf and check that saw
teeth are not engaged into the material. If saw
blade is binding, it may walk up or kickback from
the workpiece as the saw is restarted.
• Support large panels to minimise the risk of
blade pinching and kickback. Large panels tend
to sag under their own weight. Supports must be
placed under the panel on both sides, near the line
of cut and near the edge of the panel.
• Do not use dull or damaged blades. Unsharp-
ened or improperly set blades produce narrow
kerf causing excessive friction, blade binding and
kickback.
• Blade depth and bevel adjusting locking levers
must be tight and secure before making cut. If
blade adjustment shifts while cutting, it may cause
binding and kickback.
• Use extra caution when sawing into existing
walls or other blind areas. The protruding blade
may cut objects that can cause kickback.
General Operation
Always clamp the workpiece securely on a saw
horse or bench (Fig. 11). See “APPLICATIONS”
for the correct way to support your work in differ-
ent situations.
Fig. 11
1. Draw a cutting line. Place the front of the shoe on
the edge of the workpiece without making blade
contact. Hold the Tilt-Lok™ handle with one hand
and the front handle with the other (Fig. 12).
Fig. 12
2. Line up the sight line with your cutting line. Posi-
tion your arms and body to resist KICKBACK.
Pull the trigger, allowing the motor to reach full
speed before beginning to cut.
3. While cutting, keep the shoe fl at against the
workpiece and maintain a fi rm grip. Do not force
the saw through the workpiece. Forcing a saw
can cause KICKBACK.
4. If making a partial cut, restarting in mid-cut or
correcting direction, allow the blade to come to
a complete stop. To resume cutting, center the
blade in the kerf, back the saw away from cutting
edge a few inches, pull the trigger and re-enter
the cut slowly.
5. If the saw binds and stalls, maintain a fi rm grip
and release the trigger immediately. Hold the
saw motionless in the workpiece until the blade
comes to a complete stop.
6. After fi nishing a cut, be sure the lower guard
closes and the blade comes to a complete stop
before setting the saw down.
Electric Brake (Cat. No. 6394)
Select models feature an electrIc brake. The brake
engages when the trigger is released, causing the
blade to stop and allowing you to proceed with your
work. Generally, the saw blade stops within two
seconds. However, there may be a delay between
the time you release the trigger and when the brake
engages. Occasionally the brake may miss com-
pletely. If the brake misses frequently, the saw needs
servicing by an authorized MILWAUKEE service facil-
ity. The brake is not a substitute for the guard, and
you must always wait for the blade to stop completely
before removing the saw from the workpiece. The
correct brush grade must be used for proper opera-
tion of the brake. Use only the correct MILWAUKEE
replacement brushes when servicing the tool.
Troubleshooting
If the blade does not follow a straight line:
• Teeth are dull. This is caused by hitting a hard object
such as a nail or stone, dulling teeth on one side. The
blade tends to cut to the side with the sharpest teeth.
• Shoe is out of line or bent
• Blade is bent
• Rip fence or guide is not being used
If the blade binds, smokes or turns blue from friction:
• Blade is dull
• Blade is on backwards
• Blade is bent
• Blade is dirty
• Workpiece is not properly supported
• Incorrect blade is being used
Selecting Tilt-Lok™ Handle Positions
The Tilt-Lok™ handle is a feature which allows the
user to adjust the angle of the handle for optimum
cutting positions. The Tilt-Lok™ handle has eight (8)
detents which allow the handle to snap into position
. See “Adjusting Tilt-Lok™ Handle” for instuctions
on adjusting the handle. Refer to the chart for sug-
gested handle positions.
WARNING To reduce the risk of injury,
wear safety goggles or glasses with side
shields. Unplug the tool before changing
accessories or making adjustments.
APPLICATIONS
* These are only suggested positions; the actual
optimum cutting position may vary depending on
the actual application and user preference.
Application
Suggested Tilt-Lok™
Positions*
For cuts made
at or near
waist level Handle in lower positions allows
for more leverage when pushing
the saw through the workpiece.
For shallow
cuts made at
or near waist
level Handle in lower positions allows
the user to apply increased
downward force during shallow
cuts.
For cuts
made below
the waist,
as in
fl ooring
applications Handle in higher positions
reduce the amount of “bending
over” by the user. Higher handle
positions allow the user to apply
an increased downward force on
the saw.
For cuts
made
overhead,
as in
ceiling
applications Handle in higher positions reduce
the amount of extended reach
by the user for overhead cuts.
Higher handle positions allow
the user to apply an increased
upward force on the saw.
Cutting Large Panels
Fig. 13
Large panels and long boards sag or bend if they are
not correctly supported. If you attempt to cut without
leveling and properly supporting the workpiece,
the blade will tend to bind, causing KICKBACK.
Support large panels. Be sure to set the depth of
Pocket Cutting
Pocket cuts are made in the middle of the workpiece
when it can not be cut from an edge. We recom-
mend using a Sawzall
® reciprocating saw or jig saw
for this type of cut. However, if you must use a circu-
lar saw to make a pocket cut, USE EXTREME CAU-
TION. To maintain control of the saw during pocket
cutting, keep both hands on the saw (Fig. 15).
Fig. 14
WARNING To reduce the risk of electric
shock, check work area for hidden pipes and
wires before making pocket cuts.
Cross-Cutting Wood
Cross-cutting is cutting across the grain. Select the
proper blade for your job. Advance the saw slowly
to avoid splintering the wood.
Fig. 15
the cut so that you only cut through the workpiece,
not through the supports.
Ripping Wood
Ripping is cutting lengthwise with the grain. Select
the proper blade for your job. Use a rip fence for
rips 4" wide or less. To install the rip fence, slide
the bar through the rip fence slot in either side of
the shoe. The width of the cut is the distance from
the inside of the blade to the inside edge of the rip
fence. Adjust the rip fence for the desired width, and
lock the setting by tightening the rip fence screws.
When ripping widths greater than 4", clamp or tack
1" lumber to workpiece and use the inside edge of
the shoe as a guide.