Work Sharp Sharpening System - Manual (Page 21)

With the back nice and flat (but far from
polished at this point) adjust the fence to
properly align the sides of the chisel but
loose enough that you can easily push it
up against the underside of the glass
plate (the P80 surface) for a second or
two and then pull it down across the
abrasive on the face of the tool rest to
remove any burr or wire edge formed.
Continue that motion until the bevel is
nicely formed all the way across the cut-
ting edge. In the lower photo you can
see much progress, but the bevel
grind (red arrow) has not yet reached
the cutting edge (green arrow), so
more time is required at this grit level.
Keep stroking the chisel in the sharp-
ening port pushing up against the
spinning abrasive for a second or two
and then retract for a second or two to
wipe off the burr or wire edge formed.
Once the bevel angle is evenly formed
all the way across the cutting edge,
check with a square to make sure the
cutting edge is 90 degrees to the
sides. If not, adjust the skew until it is.
The unit shown here came exactly on 90
degrees right out of the box.
At this point we have transformed our
“Pygmalion” from a rusted, pitted unus-
able mess to a well formed, but not yet
sharp working tool you will be proud to
own.
From here it is easy as the Work Sharp
machine does all the work for you. Invert
the glass plate so the P120 side is down
and remove the scratch marks formed by
the P80 grit and replace them with the
finer scratch marks of the P120 grit.