Work Sharp Sharpening System - Manual (Page 22)

If you are using the standard four grit se-
quence on two glass plates (instead of
the seven grit sequence on three plates
and the leather strop plate that I use)
your first plate will have P120 on one side
and P400 on the other.
The process is the same though it will
take a little longer to get the chisel into
initial shape with the P120 grit than it
takes with the P80 grit. Also, you will
need to mount the first plate with the
P120 side up to flatten the back, then in-
vert it to form the initial bevel angle at
P120, and invert it again to refine the
bevel edge with P400.
Using the seven grit, four plate set up
shown here you minimize the number of
times you need to invert the plates, and
you will form the initial correct back and
bevel more quickly.
Back to our seven grit sequence. Mount
the second plate with the P220 side down
and the P400 side up. Refine the flatten-
ing of the back on the P400 side working
the same way you did initially with the
P120 grit.
Once the scratch pattern on the back has
been refined to the P400 level, work the
bevel on the underside of that plate on
the P220 grit, invert the plate and take
the bevel to the P400 level.
At this point the back and bevel will
both be noticeably better with a bit of
a shine developing and the edge very
flat and looking quite sharp.
Mount the plate with the P1000 and
MM3600 grits and repeat the process
again. Work the back on the
MM3600 side, then work the bevel on
the lower P1000 side, invert the disk
and finish off the bevel with the
MM3600.
At this point you have a very, very
sharp chisel that will cut wood better
than you may have ever experienced
before.
While it is indeed sharp, it is not polished.
If you want to add a mirror-like polished
surface to the back and bevel, it is time to
mount the plate with the MM6000 on one