Great Planes Giles G-202 46 Kit - GPMA0238 User Manual

Page 5

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Clevis installation tool (GPMR8030)

Heat gun (TOPR2000)

Trim Seal Tool

(TOPR2200)

Tack Cloth (TOPR2185)

Hot Sock

(TOPR2175)

Razor plane (MASR1510)

Single-edge razor blades (HCAR0312, 100 Qty.)

36" Non-slip straightedge (HCAR0475)

Denatured or isopropyl alcohol (for epoxy clean-up)

Dremel

®

Moto-Tool

®

or similar w/sanding drum, cutting

burr and cut-off wheel

Curved-tip canopy scissors (HCAR0667)

Servo horn drill (HCAR0698)

There are two types of screws used in this kit:

Sheet metal screws are designated by a number and a
length. For example #6 x 3/4"

Machine screws are designated by a number, threads per
inch and a length. For example 4-40 x 3/4"

When you see the term “test fit” in the instructions, it means
you should first position the part on the assembly without
using any glue
, then slightly modify or “custom fit” the part as
necessary for the best fit. Do not glue until told to do so.

When you see the term “fit” in the instructions, it means you
should first position the part on the assembly without using
any glue
, then modify or “custom fit” the part as necessary for
the best fit. Glue when you are satisfied with the fit.

Whenever just “epoxy” is specified you may use either 30-
minute epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When 30-minute epoxy is
specified it is highly recommended that you use only 30-
minute epoxy because you will need the working time and/or
the additional strength.

Where you see the term “glue,” it is at your option to select the
thickness of CA with which you are most comfortable. If the
step indicates a particular thickness of glue, be sure to use the
thickness recommended for strength, penetration, and/or
working time.

Several times during construction we refer to the “top” or
“bottom” of the model or a part of the model. For example,
during wing construction we tell you to “glue the top main
spar” or “trim the bottom of the former.” It is understood that
the “top” or “bottom” of the model is as it would be when the
airplane is right-side up and will be referred to as the “top”
even if the model is being worked on upside-down (i.e. the
“top” main spar is always the “top” main spar even when the
wing is being built upside-down).

1. Unroll the plan sheets. Re-roll the plans inside out to

make them lie flat.

2. Remove all parts from the box. As you do, figure out the

name of each part by comparing it with the plans and the parts
list included with this kit. Using a felt-tip or ballpoint pen, lightly
write the part name or size on each piece to avoid confusion
later. Use the die-cut patterns shown on page 6 to identify the
die-cut parts and mark them before removing them from the
sheet. Save all leftovers. If any of the die-cut parts are
difficult to punch out, do not force them! Instead, cut around
the parts with a hobby knife. After punching out the die-cut
parts, use your bar sander to lightly sand the edges to
remove any die-cutting irregularities or slivers.

3. As you identify and mark the parts, separate them into

groups, such as fuse (fuselage), wing, fin, stab (stabilizer)
and hardware.

Zipper-top food storage bags are handy to store small parts
as you sort, identify and separate them into sub-assemblies.

Get Ready to Build

Building Notes

5

0"

1"

2"

3"

4"

5"

6"

7"

0

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

100 110 120 130 140 150 160 170 180

Inch Scale

Metric Scale

Metric Conversions

1/64" =

.4

mm

1/32" =

.8

mm

1/16" =

1.6

mm

3/32"

=

2.4 mm

1/8"

=

3.2 mm

5/32"

=

4.0 mm

3/16"

=

4.8 mm

1/4"

=

6.4 mm

3/8"

=

9.5 mm

1/2"

=

12.7 mm

5/8"

=

15.9 mm

3/4"

=

19.0 mm

1"

=

25.4 mm

2"

=

50.8 mm

3"

=

76.2 mm

6"

=

152.4 mm

12"

=

304.8 mm

18"

=

457.2 mm

21"

=

533.4 mm

24"

=

609.6 mm

30"

=

762.0 mm

36"

=

914.4 mm

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