Novak HV Maxx (55-1732-5) - Manual (Page 2)

*If motor has no ground tab
(as shown here), solder the
capacitors to motor can.
The Havoc Sport ESC has the industry-standard receiver input connector on
a user-replaceable input harness & works with all major radio brand’s new
receivers. However, some very old receivers must have the wiring sequence
in the plastic 3-pin connector housing changed. This is important, because
receiver & servo electronics may be damaged if the sequence is incorrect.
JR • Hitec • Futaba • New KO • Airtronics Z
JR, Hitec, Futaba, new KO, and Airtronics Z receivers do not need input
harness re-wiring. Airtronics Z receivers have blue plastic cases & new KO
cases have tabs on the input harness openings, as in Figure 1.
• Plug one end of the input signal harness into the THROTTLE CHANNEL (#2) of
receiver with the BLACK wire toward the outside edge of receiver case.
• Plug the other end of the input harness into 3-pin header on the ESC’s PC board
with the WHITE wire toward the outside edge of the ESC (Note the ‘S’ (signal)
marking on the pin-out label on the front of the ESC’s case below the PC board).
Old-style KO • Old-style Sanwa/Airtronics
If you have an older KO or Sanwa/Airtronics, you must change the sequence
of the ESC’s input harness wires— Old Sanwa/Airtronics cases are black color
& Old KO cases do not have tab openings, as in Figure 2 above.
• Using a small flat blade screwdriver, remove the red & black wires from the
plastic housing at the receiver end of the input harness as in Figure 3 below.
• Interchange the red and black wires in the plastic 3-pin connector housing at
the receiver end of the input harness.
• Insert modified end of the harness into the THROTTLE CHANNEL (#2) of receiver
with the RED wire toward the outside edge of receiver case.
• Plug the other end of the input harness into the ESC with the WHITE wire
toward the ‘S’ (signal) marking on the ESC’s case.
FIGURE 3
With a small flat-bladed
standard screwdriver,
gently lift plastic prong
until wire and metal
socket easily slide out of
plastic housing.
CHANGING WIRING SEQUENCE AT RECEIVER
F
IG
U
R
E
1
F
IG
U
R
E
2
New KO (with tabs) Old KO (no tabs)
tabs no tabs
black
red
red
white
black
white
P3
STEP 1--CONNECT INPUT HARNESS
1. THERMALLY PROTECTED BRUSHLESS MOTOR REQUIRED
This ESC is designed for Novak brushless motors (down to 8.5T) and WILL NOT
operate if used with motors that do not have built-in thermal protection.
2. DO NOT USE SCHOTTKY DIODES WITH HAVOC ESC
Schottky diodes must NOT be used with reversible ESCs (including brushless).
Schottky diode usage will damage the ESC & void warranty.
3. FACTORY-INSTALLED POWER CAPACITOR REQUIRED
The factory-installed Power Capacitor MUST be used with brushless & brush-type
motors. If Power Capacitor becomes dented or damaged, ESC failure can occur-
-replace immediately. Longer Power Capacitor wires will decrease performance.
4. CHECK FOR PROPER GEARING
Refer to the ‘PROPER GEAR SELECTION’ portion of the PROGRAMMING/GEARING
Sheet (Pg.5) to determine proper gearing & avoid overheating.
5. SOLDER MOTOR POWER WIRES TO MOTOR
*Skip this step if installing complete system with ESC factory-wired to motor.
A. Cut the
BLUE, YELLOW & ORANGE silicone motor power wires to the desired
length, and strip 1/8-3/16” of insulation from the end of each wire. Tightly
twist the exposed strands of wire, and tin the exposed end section of each
wire with solder with a good, high heat iron.
B. Solder the ESC’s BLUE Phase ‘A’ motor wire to the motor’s phase ‘A’ solder tab.
Apply heat to exposed wire with soldering iron, and add solder to the tip of
the iron & the wire—Add just enough solder to form a clean & continuous
joint from the solder tab up onto the wire.
IMPORTANT NOTE: DO NOT OVERHEAT SOLDER TABS
Prolonged/excessive heating of solder tabs (motor or ESC) will cause damage.
C. Solder the ESC’s YELLOW Phase ‘B’ motor wire to the motor’s phase ‘B’ solder
tab as described in Step 5B above.
D. Solder the ESC’s ORANGE Phase ‘C’ motor wire to the motor’s phase ‘C’ solder
tab as described in Step 5B above.
Note: Make sure no wire strands have strayed to an adjacent solder tab, this will
result in short-circuiting & severe ESC damage, which will void the warranty.
6. CONNECT MOTOR’S SENSOR HARNESS TO ESC
Insert the 6-pin connector on the end of the motor’s sensor wires into ESC’s sensor
harness socket--the connector is keyed and will only go together in one direction.
7. INSTALL PINION GEAR (refer to Proper Gear Selection on p.5)
8. CONNECT SPEED CONTROL TO BATTERY PACK
Connect the speed control’s Tamiya-style JST battery connector to a charged
2-cell Li-Po or 4 to 7 cell (1.2VDC/cell) battery pack.
Note: ESC comes with LiPo Cut-Off Circuitry turned ON for operation with
LiPo batteries--be sure to turn feature OFF if using NiMH or NiCd cells (Pg.6).
S T E P 3 - - M O U N T I N G E S C
Mount the speed control with the power wires away from other electronics
& moving parts. Select a location that allows airflow through heat sinks.
If the ESC gets air flow, it will run cooler, and that means it will be more
efficient and you will go faster!
1. MOUNT SPEED CONTROL IN VEHICLE
Use the included double-sided tape to mount ESC in vehicle (do not glue).
Avoid contact with side walls or other components to minimize vibration.
Be sure the receiver and antenna are mounted as far from the speed
control, power wires, battery, & servo as possible--these components
all emit RF noise when the throttle is applied. On graphite or aluminum
chassis vehicles, it may also help to place the receiver on its edge with the
crystal and antenna as far above chassis as possible.
Note: Mount the antenna as close to receiver as possible--trail
any excess antenna wire off the top of the antenna mast (cutting
or coiling excess antenna wire will reduce the radio range).
2. SECURE POWER CAPACITOR TO CHASSIS
Use the included double-sided tape, or a tie-wrap, to mount the Power
Capacitor to the vehicle’s chassis or shock tower. Power Capacitor can also be
tie-wrapped along the power wires—this requires less space on the chassis.
3. INSTALL ON/OFF SWITCH
Use a screw or the included double-sided tape, and mount the switch where
it will be easy to access—be sure to select a position where it will not get
damaged or get switched OFF during a crash or roll-over.
N O VA K B R U S H L E S S M O T O R S (Figure 4)
1. DISCONNECT BRUSHLESS MOTOR SENSOR HARNESS
The Havoc ESC automatically switches to Brush-Mode when the ESC power is
switched ON and no brushless sensor harness is connected.
2. INSTALL MOTOR CAPACITORS
Electric brush-type motors generate RF noise that causes interference. Three
0.1µF (50V) non-polarized, ceramic capacitors must be used on all motors to
reduce motor noise & prevent ESC damage.
Note: Some motors come with built-in capacitors. If your motor only has 2 capacitors, you
need to install a capacitor between the positive & negative motor tabs––If you experience
radio interference with built-in capacitors only, install external ones.
Solder 0.1µF (50V) capacitors between:
• POSITIVE (+) & NEGATIVE (–) motor tabs.
• POSITIVE (+) motor tab & GROUND tab*.
• NEGATIVE (–) motor tab & GROUND tab*.
Negative (–) motor tab
0.1µF Capacitors
Positive (+) motor tab
Ground / motor can
3. SOLDER MOTOR POWER WIRES TO MOTOR
With brush-type motors, the Havoc Sport ESC’s BLUE and YELLOW wires must
be connected to the motor. It is recommended to use Novak’s 3.5mm Low-Loss
Power Connectors (#5730-5733) for a strong connection.
A. The ORANGE wire is unused with brush-type motors. It can be either de-
soldered from the ESC’s PCB, or heat shrinked and zip tied to prevent shorting.
B. Connect the BLUE ESC wire to the NEGATIVE (–) Motor Tab.
C. Connect the YELLOW ESC wire to the POSITIVE (+) Motor Tab.
4. INSTALL PINION GEAR (refer to Proper Gear Selection on Pg.5)
FIGURE 5
If you are going to use connectors, we suggest low-loss battery connectors
(do not use crimp type) like Dean’s Ultra.
• Use polarized connectors. Reverse voltage will damage the ESC &
void warranty.
• Use a female connector on battery packs to avoid shorting.
When wiring the vehicle’s electronics, short wires & neat/clean installations
will give you better performance, higher efficiency, & less radio problems
(glitching, etc.). Try your best to keep power wires away from signal wires
& the receiver and antenna.
B
R
U
S
H
L
E
S
S
-M
O
D
E
S
E
T
-U
P
P
H
O
T
O
(F
IG
U
R
E
4
)
B
R
U
S
H
-M
O
D
E
S
E
T
-U
P
P
H
O
T
O
2
Single W
ire Method (FIGURE 6)
ON/OFF
Switch
User-replaceable
input signal
harness (Ch.2)
Black power wire
(batter
y negative)
Red power wire
(battery positive)
Blue power wire
(motor phase ‘A’)
(–) (+)
2S LiPo batter
y pack or 4 to 7 cell NiCd/NiMH
Yellow power wire
(motor phase ‘B’)
Orange power
wire (motor
phase ‘C’)
Servo plugged into
steering ch. (#1)
Novak sensor-based
brushless motor
down to 8.5 turns
P2
One-Touch
button
Power Cap
tie-wrapped
to wires
Yellow power wire
(–)
(+)
Brush-type
motor
(–) (+)
C O N N E C T O R S A N D W I R I N G H I N T S
Status LEDs
Fan power
output pins
ON/OFF
Switch
User-replaceable
input signal
harness (Ch.2)
Black power wire (batter
y negative)
Trail excess
wire off top of
antenna mast
2S LiPo or 4 to 7 cell NiCd/NiMH batter
y pack
Servo plugged into
steering ch. (#1)
One-Touch
button
Status LEDs
STEP 2--ESC/MOTOR/BATTERY WIRING
With ESC connected to (at least) a receiver & a charged battery pack:
1. TURN ON THE TRANSMITTER’S POWER
2. PRESS & HOLD ESC’S ONE-TOUCH/SET BUTTON
3. TURN ON THE SPEED CONTROL’S POWER
With transmitter throttle at neutral, and still pressing the SET button,
slide the ESC’s ON/OFF switch to ON position.
4. CONTINUE HOLDING SET BUTTON UNTIL RED LED COMES ON
5. RELEASE SET BUTTON AS SOON AS LED TURNS RED
6. PULL TRANSMITTER THROTTLE TO FULL ON POSITION
Hold it there until the green status LED turns solid green.
Note: Motor will not run during programming even if connected.
7. PUSH TRANSMITTER THROTTLE TO FULL BRAKES
Hold it there until the green status LED blinks green.
8. RETURN TRANSMITTER THROTTLE TO NEUTRAL
Red status LED will turn solid red, indicating that speed control is at
neutral and that proper programming has been completed.
NOTE: If transmitter settings are changed, One-Touch Programming must be
repeated. If you experience any problems, turn off ESC & repeat One-Touch.
REMEMBER: Whenever the One-Touch Programming is performed, the
ESC automatically reverts back to the factory default settings.
STEP 4--ONE-TOUCH PROGRAMMING
Blue power wire
T H R O T T L E P R O F I L E S
NOTE: The Havoc’s software has an Auto-Detect Brush-Mode.
This feature will automatically switch the ESC from the Brushless
Throttle Profile to Brush-Mode when it does not have a brushless
motor’s sensor harness plugged into it at start-up.
BRUSHLESS PROFILE BRUSH-MODE
1 2
w/Reverse on on
Reverse % 100% 100%
Programmable yes yes
Minimum Brake % 0% 0%
Drag Brake off off
Dead Band % 6% 6%
Minimum Drive % 1% 1%
Throttle Curve expo linear
Brake Frequency 4 kHz 3 kHz fixed
Motor Rotation CCW N/A
Li-Po Cut-Off on on
The Havoc ESC reverts back to default settings when One-Touch set-up is performed.
The Havoc ESC is fully programmable, refer to Pg.6 for fine-tuning options.
A U X I L I A RY FA N O U T P U T
The Havoc ESC features a set of power
output pins for running auxiliary cooling
fans for the motor, the ESC, or both, and
they will switch on & off with the ESC’s
power switch. These pins output 6.0
VDC (same as the BEC), so you will get
maximum output from your cooling fans
without over-powering them by running
directly from the battery pack’s voltage.
The pin-out label located on the front
lower section of the ESC’s case (under
the pins, push button, & LEDs) shows the
polarity of the fan power output pins.
They are the 2 pins on the front edge
of the circuit board--Positive (+) is on
the left, and Negative (–) is on the right.
The set of 3 pins behind them are for the user-replaceable input signal
harness--The polarity of those is the same: Positive in the middle, Negative
on the right, and the extra pin on the left is for the input signal.
The Novak 30x30x6mm clear cooling fan (Novak kit #5648) is recommended
for the Havoc ESC. It not only fits the size of Havoc’s heat sink perfectly, it
also comes with the connector already on it to match the pins on the Havoc.
receiver
receiver
Install pinion gear
(refer to Pg.5)
Trail
excess
wire off
top of
antenna
mast
Install
pinion
gear
(refer to Pg.5)
Remove or
insulate Orange
power wire
Remove
sensor
harness
negative
fan pin pin-out
label
positive
fan pin
Novak
#5648
installed
FIGURE 7
B R U S H - T Y P E M O T O R S (Figure 5)