Novak Important HV Maxx Gearing Update (55-3221-1) - Manual (Page 2)

changing wiring sequence @ receiver end
FIGURE 1 FIGURE 2
New KO (with tabs) Old KO (no tabs)
tabs no tabs
black red
red
white
black
white
P2
step
3
–
motor installation
P3
step
1
–
connect input harness
1. MOTOR CAPACITORS NOT NEEDED
Novak brushless motors do not require external motor capacitors.
2. DO NOT USE SCHOTTKY DIODES
Schottky diodes must NOT be used with reversible speed controls
(including brushless speed controls) . Schottky diode usage will damage the
speed control & void the warranty.
3. FACTORY-INSTALLED POWER CAPACITOR REQUIRED
MOUNTING THE POWER CAPACITOR:
Mount the Power Trans-Cap Module to the vehicle’s chassis using the
included double-sided tape or tie-wraps . You can also tie-wrap it to the
ESC’s battery wires if there is limited room on the chassis.
If Power Cap. becomes dented or damaged, ESC failure can occur--replace
it immediately. Longer Power Capacitor wires decrease performance.
4. INSTALL PINION GEAR
refer to ‘PROPER GEAR SELECTION’ section (P5) of Programming
& Gearing sheet to determine the proper gearing
After selecting proper final gear ratio, install pinion gear (usually about
6-8 teeth smaller than stock) on motor and position set-screw over the flat
on the end of the motor shaft. Test fit motor in vehicle to align pinion
and spur gears, then tighten pinion gear on shaft.
5. CHECK MOTOR SCREW LENGTH
You must check the length of the motor screw to ensure that the motor
will not be damaged. You should have no more than 1/8” of screw
extending past the vehicle’s motor mounting plate (2-4mm). Too little
can strip the threads in the end bell, and any more will cause damage
& short-circuiting inside the motor & will void warranty.
step
4
–
battery CONNECTION
The HV Pro is very powerful, and capable of very efficient delivery of
battery power to its brushless motor. Therefore, good connections must
be made between the battery, speed control, and motor.
A common cause of perfomance problems and speed control failures
is poor connections--If you have any doubts about your soldering skill,
we suggest seeking assistance at your hobby shop or track.
With the HV Pro ESC & motor installed, it’s time for battery connections.
The HV Pro ESC is factory-wired for two battery packs with JST/Tamiya-
style battery connectors for use with sport battery packs.
When using the HV Pro in monster trucks or other heavy, high-power
vehicles, we strongly suggest replacing the battery connectors with ones
that are capable of handling higher current. We recommend using the
Novak Low-Loss Power Connectors or the Deans® Ultra Plug TM .
BATTERY PACK CONNECTIONS
The HV Pro system is designed to be used with two battery packs. However, it can
also be used with a single battery pack ranging from 6 NiMH cells (1.2VDC/cell) or 2S
LiPo, up to 14 NiMH cells (or 4S LiPo) or a 12 volt DC battery or gel cell. Using the HV
Pro with a single battery requires special wiring and is discussed below.
using dual battery packs
:
a. Connect one battery pack (6-7 cells @ 1.2VDC/cell or 2S LiPo) to the JST/
Tamiya connector at the end of the red & black wires coming from the
ESC’s BAT.1 solder tabs as marked on ESC’s case labels.
b. Connect a second battery pack to the JST/Tamiya connector coming
from the ESC’s BAT.2 solder tabs.
c. If using NiMH or NiCd batteries, disable the LiPo Cut-Off Circuitry.
using a single battery pack
:
To use the HV Pro with a single 6-14 cell NiMH pack, a 4S LiPo, or a 12VDC
battery, the pack/battery must be connected to the BAT.2 input & the
BAT.1 input must be shorted together (see Fig.6 below/left).
a. Cut the black wire coming from the BAT.1 (–) solder tab (battery wire
closest to the front of ESC) about 2-3” above the solder tab.
b. Strip a 1/8-1/4” of insulation off the end of the BAT.1 (–) black wire.
Tightly twist the strands of wire & lightly tin with solder.
CAUTION: When making battery wire solder connections at the ESC’s
Direct-Solder Wiring Tabs, it is important to not overheat & damage
PCB (printed ciruit board) with the soldering iron by applying prolonged
or excessive heating (PCB damage voids warranty).
c. Remove the red wire from the BAT.1 (+) solder tab:
Use a soldering iron to apply heat to the wire’s solder joint while gently
pulling on the wire to remove it from the PC Board’s hole.
d. Solder the stripped & tinned end of the black wire coming from the
ESC’s BAT.1 (–) solder tab into the BAT.1 (+) solder tab:
Insert the wire end into the BAT.1 (+) solder tab hole (if there is still solder
in the hole you can melt it with the iron while pushing the wire through
the hole). Apply heat to the section of wire that is sticking through the
tab’s hole, and add solder to the tip of the soldering iron and to the
wire. Add just enough solder to form a clean & continuous joint from
the plated area of the solder tab up onto the wire. Use side cutters to
trim excess wire above tab (about 1/16”).
e. Connect battery pack (6-14 cells @1.2V/cell or 4S LiPo) to the JST/Tamiya
connector at the end of the red & black wires coming from the ESC’s
BAT.2 solder tabs as marked on the HV-Maxx case labels.
f. If using NiMH or NiCd batteries, disable the LiPo Cut-Off Circuitry.
B.E.C. OUTPUT WHEN USING SINGLE BATTERY ABOVE 8.4VDC
When using a single battery above 8.4VDC (like a lead acid or gell cell),
there is limited output from the B.E.C. circuit & you need to use a separate
receiver battery pack. (refer to Using A Receiver Battery Pack section on P4)
sensor harness wiring
Should any of the 26G Teflon wires pull out of the connector on the motor’s
sensor harness, re-insert them in the appropriate slot in the connector as
shown below. There is a small plastic tab that grabs a small raised barb on
the back of the metal socket crimped to the Teflon wire’s end. The plastic
tab should be checked to make sure it has not deformed excessively before
inserting the socket into the plastic connector housing.
If the sensor harness gets damaged, contact our Customer Service Department.
step
2
–
MOUNTiNG ESC
Mount ESC with power wires away from other electronics & moving parts.
Select a location with good cooling & airflow through the heat sinks.
If the ESC gets air flow, it will run cooler; and that means it will be more efficient!
For single battery pack use, proceed to STEP 4 before completing STEPs 2 & 3
1. MOUNT ESC IN VEHICLE using the included double-sided tape or with
screws through the mounting ears on the sides of the case [the included
#4x1” self-tapping screws fit the original ESC mounting in many vehicles--go
through the fan mount bracket, then ESC mounting ears, & into chassis].
2. PLUG COOLING FAN INTO ESC’s FAN POWER OUTPUT JACK Remove
rubber plug from ESC’s fan power output jack located directly above the
input signal harness opening (see Fig.5 below/right). Plug the connector on
the fan harness into the power output jack (Note polarity: RED =
+
).
3. INSTALL FAN BRACKET ONTO ESC (when using tape to mount ESC) using
included #6x5/8” self-tapping screws. Position fan bracket on ESC so that
the holes for attaching the fan to the bracket are towards ESC front.
4. INSTALL COOLING FAN ONTO BRACKET using the included 4-40x1/2”
socket head screws. Position fan so it is directly over the ESC’s heat sinks
& thread screws into the 2 holes on the top of the fan mount bracket.
5. INSTALL ESC ON/OFF SWITCH using a screw or double-sided tape where
it will be easy to access [in many vehicles you can screw the switch into
one of the holes that held the original switch] .
6. CONNECT ESC TO RECEIVER––Configure input harness wires as
described in Step 1 & connect ESC to the THROTTLE CHANNEL (#2) of
receiver. Be sure receiver & antenna are mounted as far from ESC, power
wires, battery, & servo as possible--these components all emit RF noise
when throttle is applied. On graphite or aluminum chassis vehicles, it may help
to place receiver on edge with crystal & antenna as far above chassis as possible.
Note: Mount antenna as close to receiver as possible--trail any excess wire off top
of antenna mast (cutting or coiling excess antenna wire will reduce radio range).
Motor Installation: continued
why you want a power capacitor
The HV Pro comes with a high-quality Power Trans-Cap Module that drops ESC
operating temperatures by 10-15°F (cooler = more efficient = faster) and dissipates
RF noise & voltage spikes caused by the ESC’s high switching speed.
You MUST use Novak Power Capacitors (one part of Power Trans-Cap Modules)!
Other capacitors with similar ratings don’t provide equal protection. We’ve done
extensive research to find capacitors with the very best quality factors.
continued I^
6. CONNECT MOTOR’S SENSOR HARNESS TO ESC
Determine the best place to route the sensor harness (away from drive
train & suspension). Insert the harness’ 6-pin connector into the ESC’s
sensor harness socket--the connector is keyed & only goes in one way.
7. INSTALL MOTOR IN VEHICLE
For most applications, the HV Pro ESC & brushless motor can be installed
in the vehicle without any modification to the motor wiring.
• Attach motor to the vehicle’s motor mount with included M3 motor
screws, using one of the sets of threaded mounting holes in the front
end bell--select a mounting position that will avoid short-circuiting of motor’s
solder tabs against conductive surfaces like aluminum or graphite.
The HV motor included in HV Pro brushless motor systems comes
with a slide-on heat sink factory-installed on it for extra cooling under
excessive loads [in some vehicles the heat sink may need a small section
of cooling fins removed to properly fit next to the vehicle’s transmission].
Rotate the heat sink on the motor as needed for proper fit--beware of
any wires crossing the heat sink’s sharp edges, as short-circuiting may occur.
• Check gear mesh for proper free play. You want to have a small amount
of play between the pinion & spur gears (about the thickness of a piece
of paper)--check free play at several positions around the spur gear.
• Tighten motor into position once desired gear mesh has been
adjusted--avoid using excessive force when tightening motor screws,
as the threaded holes could become stripped.
• For vehicles that originally used 2 motors, use the included motor
hole cover in place of the 2nd motor (this will help keep debris out of
the slipper and the gears). Install motor hole cover using the vehicle’s
original motor screws or with two 4-40x1/4” screws.
• Replace any parts of the vehicle that were removed to install the
motor--motor/gear covers, etc.
• Determine best routing for the motor’s power wires. If your vehicle
requires unsoldering motor to route power wires through the
shock tower or chassis, refer to “REPLACING POWER WIRES AT ESC
& MOTOR” on Programming/Gearing Sheet.
black
orange
white
plastic
tabs
red
blue
green
metal
barbs
raised
metal
barb
metal socket
on end of Teflon
sensor harness wires
FIGURE 5:
Cooling fan connection
fan plugs
into fan power
output jack
self-tapping screws
into ESC mounting
ears or through ears
into chassis
4-40x1/2” cap
screws secure
fan to custom
bracket
Power Trans-Cap
Module taped or
tie-wrapped
to chassis
One-Touch
button
Keep receiver & antenna
as far from motor, servo,
battery, & power wires as
possible.
U ser-replaceable
input harness
Black power wires
(battery negative)
Trail excess wire off
top of antenna mast
Red power wires
(battery positive)
Blue power wire
(motor phase ‘A’)
(–) (+)
Battery Packs
NiMH/NiCd--6 to 7 cell packs
LiPo--2S packs*
*if using LiPo batteries, be sure
LiPo Cut-Off circuitry is turned ON.
•Cut-Off Circuitry is ON by default•
ON/OFF switch
screwed or taped to chassis
(–)
(+)
Yellow power wire
(motor phase ‘B’)
servo
plugged
into
ch. (#1)
Orange power wire
(motor phase ‘C’)
Status LEDs
Sensor
harness
input
Fan power
output jack
ESC screw
mounting ears
FIGURE 4: SET-UP PHOTO
FIGURE 6:
BAT.1 shorting for single battery usage
battery connects
to BAT.2 input
BAT.1(–) shorted
to BAT.1(+)
The HV Pro has a user-replaceable input harness with the industry-standard
receiver connector on it & works with all major radio brand’s new receivers.
However, some very old receivers must have the wiring sequence in the plastic
3-pin JST connector housing changed on the receiver end. This is important, as
the receiver & servo electronics may be damaged if the sequence is incorrect.
JR • Hitec • Futaba • New KO • Airtronics Z
JR, Hitec, Futaba, new KO, & Airtronics Z receivers do not need input
harness re-wiring. Airtronics Z receivers have blue plastic cases & new KO
cases have tabs on the input harness openings as in Figure 1.
• Plug one end of the input signal harness into the THROTTLE CHANNEL (#2) of
receiver with the BLACK wire toward the outside edge of receiver case.
• Plug the other end of input harness into 3-pin header in the rectangular opening
on ESC’s case with the WHITE wire toward the ‘S’ marking on the ESC’s label.
Old-style KO • Old-style Sanwa/Airtronics
If you have an older KO or Sanwa/Airtronics, you must change the sequence
of the ESC’s input harness wires on the receiver end--Old Sanwa/Airtronics cases
are black color & Old KO cases do not have tab openings, as in Figure 2 above.
• Using a small flat blade screwdriver, remove the red & black wires from the plastic
JST connector at the receiver end of the input harness as in Figure 3 below.
• Interchange the red and black wires in the plastic 3-pin connector housing at
the receiver end of the input harness.
• Insert modified end of the harness into the THROTTLE CHANNEL (#2) of receiver
with the RED wire toward the outside edge of receiver case.
• Plug the other end of the input harness into the ESC with the WHITE wire toward
the ‘S’ (signal) marking on the ESC’s case label.
FIGURE 3
With a small standard screwdriver, gently lift plastic prong
until wire and metal socket easily slide out of plastic housing.
NOTE: OLD VERSION ESC & MOTOR SHOWN IN SET-UP PHOTO
(New ESC has Power Trans-Cap Module, not a basic PowerCap)