Preparation, Ra t, Buttonholes – SINGER W811 User Manual

Page 35

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Various

fabrics

require

various

methods

of

sewirig

buttonholes.

Four

different

methods

are

given

below,

with

suggested

uses.

If

you

are

in

doubt

as

to

which

method

is

best

for

your

fabric,

test

the

methods

in

question

and

choose

the

best

according

to

the

finished

appearance.

PREPARATION

For

the

best

results,

a

good

quality

merceriz­

ed

cotton

thread

should

be

used.

Polyester

threads

often

result

in

puckered

or

heavy

unattractive

buttonholes.

The

finer

your

fabric

is,

the

finer

your

cotton

thread

should

be.

An

interfacing

should

be

used

under

the

buttonholes

to

give

body,

to

strengthen,

and

to

help

them

withstand

wear.

To

establish

the

correct

length

of

the

buttonhole,

add

the

diameter

of

the

button

(A),

plus

the

thick­

ness

of

the

button

(B),

plus

1/8

inch

for

the

bartacks.

The

length

may

be

marked

on

the

garment

with

a

basting

stitch,

tailors

chalk,

or

transparent

tape,

as

shown.

Another

way

to

make

sure

that

all

buttonholes

will

be

the

same

size

is

to

cut

a

piece

of

cardboard

as

wide

as

the

buttonhole

foot

and

long

enough

to

make

the

distance

between

the

toe

of

the

white

slide

and

the

cardboard

the

size

buttonhole

needed.

This

method

works

for

buttonholes

up

to

1-1/8

inches

long.

Horizontal

buttonholes

should

extend

1/8

inch

beyond

the

center

line

of

the

garment.

Vertical

buttonholes

are

placed

so

that

the

cutting

space

of

the

buttonhole

is

directly

on

the

center

line.

Always

make

a

practice

buttonhole

on

a

scrap

of

the

garment

fabric

before

making

any

buttonholes

on

your

gar­

ment.

On

your

test

sample,

duplicate

the

thickness

found

in

the

garment

and

be

sure

to

include

the

interfacing.

The

test

sample

should

help

determine

the

length

needed

for

the

button

to

pass

through

easily,

and

the

stitch

length

for

the

particular

fabric.

As

with

the

satin

stitch,

the

stitches

should

be

close

together,

but

not

so

close

that

they

pile

up.

Be sure to use the buttonhole foot.

BUTTONHOLES

Center line of Garment

F

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29

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