Document Outline

• Brother 681B-UG
• 681b_UG_coverpage.pdf
  • • CONTENTS
    • 1.
    • 1. Knowing Your Sewing
    • Machine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
    • PRINCIPAL PARTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
    • ACCESSORIES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
    • OPERATING YOUR SEWING
    • MACHINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
    • Connecting plug. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
    • Controlling sewing speed. . . . . . . . . . 5
    • UPPER (NEEDLE) THREAD. . . . . . . . . . . . 6
    • LOWER (BOBBIN) THREAD. . . . . . . . . . . 7
    • How to wind bobbin. . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
    • How to remove bobbin case . . . . . . . 8
    • How to thread and insert
    • bobbin case . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
    • How to pull up lower thread . . . . . . . 9
    • NEEDLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
    • How to change the needle . . . . . . . . . 9
    • How to check the needle . . . . . . . . . . 9
    • RELATIVE CHART OF SEWING
    • MATERIAL, NEEDLE AND THREAD. . . .10
    • EXTENSION TABLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
    • SEW-LIGHT. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
    • PRESSER FOOT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
    • VARIOUS CONTROLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
    • Stitch length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
    • Zigzag width . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
    • Pressure adjuster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
    • Feed dog . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
    • Reverse stitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
    • THREAD TENSIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
    • Upper thread tension. . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
    • Lower thread tension. . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
    • 2. Straight Stitching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
    • How to start sewing. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
    • How to change sewing direction. . . . . . . 17
    • How to finish your sewing
    • project . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
    • How to remove final sewing
    • from machine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
    • How to guide and support material. . . . . 18
    • 3. Zigzag Stitching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
    • Simple zigzag stitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
    • Satin stitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
    • Decorative stitches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
    • 4. Using Built-in Patterns . . . . . . . . 21
    • Triple stretch stitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
    • Blind stitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
    • Shell stitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22
    • 5. Various Other Stitches. . . . . . . . . 23
    • Buttonholes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
    • Mending . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
    • Attaching lace . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
    • Appliquéing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
    • Cording. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
    • Monogramming . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
    • Embroidering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
    • Button sewing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
    • Darning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
    • Cloth guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
    • Narrow Hemming . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
    • Zipper insertion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
    • 6. Maintenance and Care of
    • Your Machine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
    • CLEANING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
    • Removing shuttle hook . . . . . . . . . . . 32
    • Cleaning shuttle race . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
    • Cleaning feed dog . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
    • OILING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
    • CHECK LIST FOR BETTER SEWING . . .
    • . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
    • 1. Knowing Your Sewing Machine
    • • Principal Parts
    • 1. Top Cover
    • 2. Zigzag Width Lever
    • (See page 12)
    • 3. Upper Thread Guide and Bobbin Winder
    • Tension Disc
    • 4. Front Thread Guide
    • 5. Pressure Adjuster (See page 13)
    • 6. Face Plate
    • 7. Thread Tension Dial (See page 15)
    • 8. Thread Cutter
    • 9. Presser Foot Screw
    • 10. Presser Foot (Zigzag)
    • 11. Feed Dog (See page 14)
    • 12. Needle Plate
    • 13. Needle Clamp Screw
    • 14. Shuttle Race cover
    • 15. Drop Feed Knob (See page 14)
    • 16. Reverse Sewing Button (See page 14)
    • 17. Stitch Length Dial
    • By turning this dial, you can control the length of the stitch.
    • The higher the number, the longer
    • the stitch (See page 12)
    • 18. Blind Stitch & Stretch Stitch Lever
    • 19. Spool Pins
    • 20. Bobbin Winder Device
    • 21. Balance Wheel
    • 22. Stop Motion Knob
    • 23. Motor Belt
    • 24. Motor
    • 25. 3-pin Socket
    • 26. Extension table
    • 27. Presser Foot Lifter
    • When the presser foot is at the highest
    • position, the tension on the upper thread
    • is released.
    • 28. Sew-light Switch
    • Turn this knob in any direction to switch
    • light on and off.
    • • • Accessories
    • 1. Needles
    • Single Needle No.14 (3 pcs.)
    • 2. Straight Stitch Foot
    • 3. Narrow Hemmer foot
    • 4. Zipper Foot
    • 5. Buttonhole Foot
    • 6. Button Sewing Foot
    • 7. Seam Ripper
    • 8. Bobbin (3 pcs.)
    • 9. Cloth Guide with Screw
    • 10. Screw Drivers (Large & Small)
    • 11. Oiler
    • • • Operating Your Sewing Machine
          • • CONNECTING PLUGS
    • 1. First connect three-prong plug in socket.
    • 2. Then connect electric supply plug into wall.
    • • CAUTION
    • When changing needle, bobbin or light bulb,
    • or when sewing machine is not use, it is
    • recommended that electrical supply plug
    • is disconnected to avoid electrical hazards.
    • Place foot on control pedal as shown in illustration at left.
    • When foot controller is pushed down lightly, machine will run at a low speed.
    • When pressure on foot is increased, sewing machine will pick up speed.
    • When foot controller is released the sewing machine will stop.
    • NOTE: Care should be taken that nothing is placed on foot controller when sewing machine is not in use.
    • • • Upper (Needle) Thread
    • Before threading, make sure to raise presser
    • foot and take-up lever to the highest position.
    • Then place spool of thread on the spool.
    • 1. Pass thread through the upper thread              guide, (rear) and thread guide (front).
    • 2. Now bring thread down and up through
    • thread tension dial from right to left so              that thread picks up thread check spring.
    • 3. Pass thread into the eyelet of the thread              take-up lever from right to left. And             bring down again and pass through             the thread guard.
    • 4. Bring down and pass through the thread              guides.
    • 5. Thread needle from left to right and              draw the thread out about 15 cm (6               inches).
    • NOTE: If the threading order is not correct,
    • thread breakage, stitch skipping,
    • wrinkling of fabric will occur.
    • • Lower (Bobbin) Thread
    • HOW TO WIND BOBBIN
    • 1. Loosen stop motion knob by turning it
    • toward you.
    • 2. Place an empty bobbin on the bobbin
    • winder pin.
    • 3. Place thread spool on the spool pin and take
    • thread through bobbin winder tension disc.
    • • HOW TO REMOVE BOBBIN CASE
    • 1. Raise needle to its highest position.
    • 2. Open the shuttle cover.
    • 3. Pull and open the latch of bobbin case.
    • 4. Pull out bobbin case from the shuttle.
    • • HOW TO THREAD AND INSERT BOBBIN CASE
    • 1.
    • Unwind about 8 cm (3- inches) of thread from the bobbin. Insert wound bobbin into
    • 2. Pull trailing thread into the slot case.
    • 3. Pull thread to the left under the tension spring until thread enters into delivery eye.
    • 3.
    • 4. Holding case latch
    • with the metal finger of case pointing up, fit it into the notch at the top of the shuttle race.
    • 5. Release latch and push case to the right making sure the case is in the proper position. Close the Shuttle Cover.
    • NOTE: The thread drawn out of the case is to be left hanging below the race. Leave about 15 cm ( 6 inches ) hanging.
    • • HOW TO PULL UP LOWER THREAD
    • 1. Raise needle and presser
    • foot to the highest point.
    • With left hand, hold the end
    • of upper thread and with
    • right hand, turn balance wheel toward you until the needle moves down and up again to its highest position.
    • 2. Now upper thread catches
    • the lower thread in a loop.
    • Pull upper thread toward you so that lower thread will come up in a large loop from the presser foot.
    • 3. Pull both threads under the toes of presser foot and place them to the rear leaving about 10 cm ( 4-inches).
    • • Needle
    • • HOW TO CHANGE THE NEEDLE
    • Raise needle to its highest position.
    • 2. Loosen needle clamp screw and remove
    • old needle.
    • 3. Insert new needle up into needle clamp hole
    • as far as it will go against the needle stop.
    • Make sure the flat side of needle faces toward the right side and the long groove toward left.
    • 4. Tighten needle clamp screw securely.
    • • HOW TO CHECK THE NEEDLE
    • For smooth sewing, needle must be straight and sharp.
    • To check if the needle is bent, place the flat side of the needle down on slide plate as shown in illustration.
    • • Relative Chart of Sewing Material, Needle and Thread
    • SEWING MATERIAL
    • NEEDLES
    • SIZES
    • THREAD SIZES
    • VERY THIN
    • Fine tricot, Fine Lace, Thin linen, Silk, Tulle, Chiffon
    • 9
    • Cotton: 80~120
    • Synthetic
    • Fine Mercerized Cotton
    • LIGHT WEIGHT
    • Organdy, Jersey, Voile, Taffeta, Synthetics, Silk
    • Batiste
    • 11
    • Cotton: 60~80
    • Silk: “A”
    • Synthetic
    • Mercerized 50
    • MEDIUM
    • Cotton, Gingham, Poplin, Percale, Pique, Satin,
    • Velvet, Lightweight wool, Fine corduroy, Suitings.
    • 14
    • Cotton: 50~60
    • Silk: “A”
    • Synthetic
    • Mercerized 50~60
    • HEAVY
    • Denim, Gabardine, Tweed, Corduroy
    • 16
    • Cotton: 40~50
    • Mercerized Heavy Duty
    • VERY HEAVY
    • Canvas, Overcoatings, Upholstery
    • 18
    • Cotton: 30~40
    • Mercerized Heavy Duty
    • NOTE: The same size thread should be
    • used for upper and lower threads.
    • • Extension Table
    • This sewing machine has an extension table which
    • converts it into a flat-bed machine.
    • To insert the extension table:
    • 1. Slide the extension to the right as shown in illustration.
    • 2. To remove extension table, just pull it to the left.
  • 681b_UG_pages11_21.pdf
    • Sew-Light
    • To change the bulb:
    • 1. Swing open face plate.
    • 2. Remove bulb by turning counter-clockwise.
    • 3. After replacement, close the face plate.
    • NOTE:
    • 1. Make sure new bulb is the same specification as old one.
    • 2. Make sure to switch off the light and pull out supply plug when you replace the bulb in order to avoid electric hazards.
      • • Presser Foot
      • To remove the presser foot;
      • 1. Raise needle to its highest position.
      • 2. Raise presser foot.
      • 3. Loosen presser foot thumb screw and remove presser foot.
      • 4. To attach the presser foot, place grooved side of the foot against the flat of the presser bar.
      • Tighten thumb screw.
      • • STITCH LENGTH
      • The stitch length is regulated by turning the
      • stitch length dial.
      • Numerals on the dial represent the stitch length.
      • THE HIGHER THE NUMBER, THE LONGER THE STITCH.
      • To increase the stitch length, turn stitch length dial counter-clockwise to larger number on the dial.
      • To decrease the stitch length, turn dial clockwise to smaller on the dial.
      • NOTE:
      • 1. The “0” on the dial means that the material is not being fed.
      • 2. Always set at 4 when you sew triple stretch stitch (See page21).
      • • ZIGZAG WIDTH
      • The zigzag width is regulated by operating the zigzag width lever.
      • Numerals above the lever represent the width of stitch.
      • THE HIGHER THE NUMBER, THE WIDER THE STITCH.
      • The “0” means straight stitch only.
      • NOTE: Do not move the lever while the needle is in the material.
      • • PRESSURE ADJUSTER
      • Correct pressure on presser foot is important to obtain the smooth sewing.
      • Regulate presser according to type and thickness of the materials to be sewn.
      • 1. To regulate the pressure, lower presser foot.
      • 2. Push outer ring of pressure adjuster down, and inner pin will spring up to its highest position. In this position, pressure is completely released from the presser foot.
      • 3. To increase pressure, push inner pin down with your finger.
      • NOTE: You will be able to select the correct combination by referring to the table below.
      • • FEED DOG
      • Proper use of Feed Dog is necessary for correct sewing.
      • 1. “DOWN” is used for special sewing such as
      • darning, embroidery, etc.
      • 2. “UP” is used for general sewing.
      • • REVERSE STITCH
      • Push the Reverse Sewing Button in as far as it will go to sew in reverse position.
      • Release Reverse Sewing Button and you are back to sewing in a forward position. Reverse sewing is used for tacking and reinforcement.
      • • THREAD TENSIONS
      • It is important that tension of upper and lower threads be equal to prevent puckering of
      • material or other problems.
      • It is recommended that a test sample be made before starting to sew.
      • • UPPER THREAD TENSION
      • To regulate upper thread tension, merely turn thread tension dial with your thumb after lowering the presser foot.
      • THE HIGHER THE NUMBER, THE TIGHTER THE TENSION.
      • To increase tension: Turn dial to right to
      • larger number.
      • To decrease tension: Turn dial to left to
      • smaller number.
      • NOTE: The zigzag stitch requires less upper tension than the straight stitch.
      • • LOWER THREAD TENSION
      • Although lower thread tension has already been adjusted at the factory, when sewing very thin or heavy materials it may have to be readjusted.
      • To regulate the lower thread tension, turn small screw on the tension, spring of the bobbin case with the small screw driver.
      • To increase tension: Turn the small screw
      • clockwise very slightly.
      • To decrease tension: Turn the screw counterclockwise very slightly.
      • • PERFECT STITCHING
      • Tension of upper and lower threads should
      • be equal, just sufficiently strong to lock
      • both threads in material.
      • Perfect stitching appears flat with no
      • puckering of material.
      • INCORRECT STITCH (A)
      • When the upper thread lies on the surface
      • of the material by pulling the lower thread
      • up as shown.
      • This is caused by tight tension on the upper
      • thread or loose tension on the lower thread.
      • To correct this, turn the upper thread tension
      • dial to a lower number.
      • If perfect stitching cannot be obtained by adjusting upper thread tension, adjust bobbin tension.
      • INCORRECT STITCH (B)
      • When the lower thread lies on the under surface of the material by pulling upper thread down as shown.
      • This is caused by loose tension on the upper thread or tight tension on the lower thread.
      • To correct this, turn the upper thread tension dial to a higher number.
      • If perfect stitching cannot be obtained by adjusting upper thread tension, adjust bobbin tension.
      • NOTE: It is recommended that a test sample
      • is made before starting to sew.
      • 2. Straight Stitching
      • SET YOUR SEWING MACHINE AS PER FOLLOWING TABLE.
      • • HOW TO START SEWING
      • 1. Raise needle to its highest position and lift presser foot.
      • 2. Place material under presser foot and position needle about one half inch (10mm) from material edge.
      • 3. Lower presser foot.
      • 4. For reverse sewing push Reverse Sewing
      • button sewing is used wherever reinforcement is needed.
      • 5. Release Reverse Sewing Button and start
      • sewing in forward position.
        • NOTE: Do not pull the material. Let the machine do the work. Merely guide the material with your fingers. If you pull the material, your needle might either bend or break.
      • • HOW TO CHANGE THE SEWING DIRECTION
      • 1. Stop machine at the turning point while the needle is in the material.
      • 2. Raise the presser foot and turn the material to the new direction while the needle acts as the axis.
      • 3. Lower presser foot and sew in new direction.
      • • HOW TO FINISH YOUR SEWING PROJECT (REVERSE STITCHING)
      • Reverse stitching is used to reinforce stitches near the edge of material or wherever reinforcement is needed.
      • 1. That is done by stitching to the material edge… then stopping.
      • 2. Push Reverse Sewing Button and stitch backwards for ½ inch (10mm) from material edge.
      • • HOW TO REMOVE FINAL SEWING FROM MACHINE
      • 1. Stop the machine.
      • 2. Raise needle to its highest position and make sure that the thread take-up lever is in the highest position also.
      • 3. Lift presser foot and pull out the material gently to the left side diagonally.
      • 4. Cut both threads on the thread cutter.
      • 5. Leave 4 inches (10cm) of thread between the presser foot loose while the thread take-up lever is at highest position. You are ready to sew.
      • • HOW TO GUIDE AND SUPPORT MATERIAL
      • Generally it is enough to guide the material in front of the presser foot as shown in the upper illustration.
      • However, in case of special materials such as tricot, crepes, knits, etc., we recommend you to support the material both in front and back of the presser foot with gentle tension as shown in the lower illustration.
      • 3. Zigzag Stitching
      • SET YOUR SEWING MACHINE AS PER FOLLOWING TABLE.
      • • SIMPLE ZIGZAG STITCH
      • Set the Stitch zigzag, sew about 1-4 to
      • obtain simple zigzag stitch.
      • 1. Before stitching zigzag, sew about 5-6
      • Straight stitches with stitch length between for reinforcement.
      • 2. Set zigzag width lever to your desired width and commence to sew.
      • 3. Before removing work from machine, reset the zigzag lever to “O” and sew 5-6 stitches for reinforcement.
      • NOTE: Generally, zigzag stitch requires less
      • upper thread tension than the straight
      • stitches.
      • • SATIN STITCH
      • When the Stitch Length Dial is set to between the “SATIN STITCH” is produced.
      • This is used to make buttonholes and various decorative stitches.
      • NOTE: It is recommend that a test sample
      • is made before starting to sew.
      • • DECORATIVE STITCHES
      • SET YOUR SEWING MACHINE AS PER FOLLOWING TABLE.
      • Using the “SATIN STITCH” various decorative stitches are produced by using the zigzag width lever as follows:
      • 4. Using Built-in Patterns
      • • TRIPLE STRETCH STITCH
      • SET YOUR SEWING MACHINE AS PER FOLLOWING TABLE.
      • Set Blind Stitch and Stretch Stitch Lever at
      • as shown in illustration at left.
      • The “Triple Stretch Stitch” is used for any
      • stretch material such as knitted fabric, tricot, etc. This stitch is three times the strength of a regular stitch and gives elasticity to seams which prevents breakage of thread.
      • NOTE: With zigzag width lever set at 4, a
      • triple zigzag stitch is produced which
      • can be used as a decorative stitch.
  • 681b_UG_pages22_32.pdf
    • BLIND STITCH
    • SET YOUR SEWING MACHINE AS PER FOLLOWING TABLE.
    • SET BLIND STITCH AND STRETCH STITCH LEVER AT
    • 1. Fold material to size of hem desired and
    • then fold back as shown in Figure A,
    • leaving ¼ inch (6mm) overlap at edge.
    • 2. Sew on fold as in Figure B.
    • 3. When material is unfolded you will have a blind stitched hem as in Figure C.
    • NOTE: Thread used should be the same
    • color as material used.
      • SHELL STITCH
      • SET YOUR SEWING MACHINE AS PER FOLLOWING TABLE.
      • This can be used for sewing a picoted
      • edge on a light material.
      • 1. Set the machine as for blind stitch.
      • 2. Sew material on bias, placing material
      • under the presser foot so that straight
      • stitches are sewn on seam line and zigzag stitches are sewn slightly over seam edge.
      • 3. The “SHELL STITCH” requires a little
      • tighter upper thread tension than normal.
      • 4. Sew at slow speed.
      • 5. Edge of material becomes picoted.
      • 5. Various Other Stitches
      • • BUTTONHOLE
      • • SET YOUR SEWING MACHINE AS PER FOLLOWING TABLE.
      • Step A:
      • 1. Set zigzag width lever to 2.
      • 2. Set drop feed to Up.
      • 3. Lower presser foot and commence to sew
      • predetermined length.
      • 4. Stop machine when the needle is in the
      • material at the right side of row.
      • Step B:
      • 1. Lift the presser foot and run material 180 degree
      • while the needle acts as the axis.
      • 2. Lower the presser foot and raise the needle from
      • material by turning balance wheel toward you.
      • 3. Set zigzag width lever to 4 and drop feed
      • knob to Down.
      • 4. Commence to sew 5 to 6 stitches and stop
      • the machine when the needle is in the material
      • at the left side of the row.
      • Step C:
      • 1. Lift the presser foot slightly and set the feed
      • dog knob to Up.
      • 2. Raise the needle and set the zigzag width
      • lever to 2.
      • 3. Sew row to predetermined length.
      • 4. Stop the machine when the needle is in the
      • material at the left side of row.
      • Step D:
      • 1. Raise the needle and set the feed dog knob to
      • Down.
      • 2. Set the zigzag width lever to 4.
      • 3. Sew 5-6 stitches across to finish buttonhole, then turn material 90 degrees clockwise and sew 5-6 straight stitches to secure stitching.
      • 4. Lift presser foot and remove work from
      • NOTE:
      • 1. It is recommended that a sample buttonhole
      • be made starting to sew.
      • 2. Use tailor’s chalk to mark length of buttonhole.
      • MENDING
      • SET YOUR SEWING MACHINE AS PER FOLLOWING TABLE.
      • 1. Place reinforcement material under
      • material to be repaired.
      • 2. Sew both edges of tear together.
      • 3. Use satin stitch to strengthen and secure
      • ends of tear as in illustrations.
      • • ATTACHING LACE
      • SET YOUR SEWING MACHINE AS PER FOLLOWING TABLE.
      • 1. Place lace under material edge letting it
      • overlap ¼ inch (6 mm).
      • 2. Place under presser foot and sew.
      • • APPLIQUÉING
      • SET YOUR SEWING MACHINE AS PER FOLLOWING TABLE.
      • 1. Baste cut design to the material.
      • 2. Following the design, commence to sew
      • carefully.
      • 3. Cut away the surplus material close to the
      • design.
      • 4. Remove basting.
      • • CORDING
      • SET YOUR SEWING MACHINE AS PER FOLLOWING TABLE.
      • 1. In accordance with thickness of cord being
      • used, set zigzag width lever.
      • 2. Place cord on fabric to be sewn.
      • 3. Lower presser foot and sew using zigzag
      • stitch. Guide cord by hand to where you
      • desire it.
      • • MONOGRAMMING, USING EMBROIDERY HOOP
      • SET YOUR SEWING MACHINE AS PER FOLLOWING TABLE.
      • 1. Remove presser foot.
      • 2. Draw lettering on the right side of the material.
      • 3. Stretch work between embroidery hoops as firmly as possible.
      • 4. Place the work under the needle and lower presser bar.
      • 5. Pull lower thread up through the material
      • at starting position by turning balance wheel and holding both threads.
      • 6. Hold the hoop with thumb and forefinger of both hands while pressing the material with middle and third fingers and supporting the outside of hoop with smaller finger.
      • 7. Start sewing, moving hoop lightly along the lettering with even rate of speed while controlling zigzag width lever with your right hand.
      • • EMBROIDERING, USING EMBROIDERY HOOP
      • SET YOUR SEWING MACHINE AS PER FOLLOWING TABLE.
      • 1. Remove presser foot.
      • 2. Draw design on the material.
      • 3. Use embroidery hoop as you would for
      • monogramming.
      • 4. Position the hoop under the needle and lower presser bar.
      • 5. Pull lower thread up through material.
      • 6. Stitch outline of design by removing embroidery hoop accordingly.
      • 7. To fill in design stitch from outline of design to inside and from inside to edge of outline alternately until design is completely filled in. Keep stitching close together.
      • NOTE: A long stitch is made by removing embroidery hoop rapidly and a short stitch is made by moving it slowly.
      • • BUTTON SEWING
      • SET YOUR SEWING MACHINE AS PER FOLLOWING TABLE.
      • 1. Put button in place on material to be sewn.
      • Place under presser foot.
      • 2. Set zigzag width control to regulate distance of stitch between the holes in the button.
      • 3. Lower presser foot and check to see that
      • needle enters holes in button properly.
      • 4. Slowly sew approximately 10 stitches.
      • 5. Stop machine and raise needle from the
      • Material.
      • 6. Turn zigzag width lever to 0.
      • 7. Sew approximately three stitches in one of the holes in the button to secure it.
      • 8. Remove work and cut threads.
      • • BUTTON SEWING WITH THREAD SHANK
      • For heavier material use the following method to sew on buttons:
      • 1. Place a needle on the button as shown in
      • illustration and then sew on button as you would regularly. (see above)
      • 2. When removing work from machine leave a long upper thread to be used to form a thread shank.
      • 3. Pull the upper thread through the hole of
      • button between button and material to form thread shank.
      • With normal sewing needle sew in thread ends.
      • • DARNING
      • SET YOUR SEWING MACHINE AS PER FOLLOWING TABLE.
      • 1. Place portion to be darned under the presser foot.
      • 2. Lower presser foot.
      • 3. Sew alternately drawing the work gently away from you and pulling it toward you.
      • 4. Repeat this motion until the portion to be
      • darned is filled with parallel lines of stitching.
      • • CLOTH GUIDE
      • The cloth guide helps to make straight and
      • parallel stitches follow the edge of the material.
      • To attach the cloth guide, place it over two
      • holes to the right of the needle plate in the
      • sewing machine bed.
      • Place thumb screw through the guide slot,
      • adjusting the guide for the desired distance
      • and fasten it securely.
      • • NARROW HEMMING
      • By using narrow hemmer foot a neat scroll type hem
      • is made.
      • SET YOUR SEWING MACHINE AS PER FOLLOWING TABLE.
      • 1. Cut top corner of the material about 0.3cm (1/8”).
      • 2. Place material wrong side up and insert cut off angel into foot opening.
      • 3. Pull material by hand from the back of the presser foot.
      • Make sure the needle is positioned over material.
      • Lower presser foot.
      • 4. Make sure upper and lower threads are placed behind presser foot.
      • 5. Sew at medium speed. Guide the material by hand through the presser foot opening.
      • NOTE: With zigzag width lever set a 3, zigzag narrow hemming can be done following the above procedure.
      • • ZIPPER INSERTION
      • Zipper foot is used to sew various types of
      • zippers and can easily be positioned to right
      • or left side of needle.
      • When zipper is being sewn at left side of needle, position zipper foot by loosening thumb screw and sliding zipper foot to right.
      • When zipper is being sewn at right side of
      • needle, position zipper foot by loosening thumb screw and sliding zipper foot to left.
      • SET YOUR SEWING MACHINE AS PER FOLLOWING TABLE.
      • 1. Lower needle into side notch located on
      • presser foot. (right or left)
      • 2. Tighten thumb screw to lock presser foot into position.
      • 3. Fold edge of material ¾ inch (2cm) and
      • place zipper under folded portion.
      • 4. By guiding zipper foot along the zipper teeth you will stitch close to edge of zipper in correct position.
      • 5. To sew opposite side of zipper, loosen thumb screw and position zipper foot. (right or left)
      • 6. Maintenance and Care of Your Machine
      • Cleaning
      • The sliding parts of the shuttle race body and the hook must be cleaned regularly so that lint does not accumulate.
      • REMOVING SHUTTLE HOOK
      • 1. Raise needle to its highest position.
      • 2. Open the shuttle race cover.
      • 3. Take out bobbin case.
      • 4. Push latch levers down and remove retaining ring.
      • 5. Remove hook by grasping center post of
      • hook.
      • NOTE: When needle is lowered,
      •   hook cannot be removed.
      • • CLEANING SHUTTLE RACE
      • 1. Remove accumulated lint and thread from the retaining ring, hook, driver and race body with brush.
      • 2. A cloth dampened with machine oil should be used to wipe shuttle race clean.
      • 3. Clean shuttle hook in the same manner as above.
      • 4. Reassemble.
      • • CLEANING FEED DOG
      • 1. Take out free arm upper plate by loosening the screw on it.
      • 2. Clean upper part of feed dog and shuttle race body with brush.
  • ADP99.tmp
    • Oiling
    • For smooth and silent operation the moving parts of the machine should be oiled periodically. (see diagram below)
    • OIL ONCE A WEEK IF MACHINE IS USED MORE THAN ONE HOUR.
    • PER DAY. IF MACHINE IS USED MORE OFTEN OIL EVERY DAY.
    • NOTE: If machine has not been used for along period of time, oil tends to coagulate and operation of machine will not be smooth. To ensure best operation in such a case, apply a small amount of benzine to oiling points as noted in diagram. For motor; One or two drops of oil twice a year is recommended.
    • • • Check List for Better Sewing
      • • Check this list if you are having the following problems:
      • • IF MATERIAL IS NOT FED
      • 1. Feed dog is down .
      • 2. Stop motion knob is loose.
      • 3. Stitch length regulator is at 0.
      • IF NEEDLE BREAKS
      • 1. Needle is inserted incorrectly.
      • 2. Needle clamp screw is loose.
      • 3. Bent needle is used.
      • 4. Upper threading is not correct.
      • 5. Upper thread tension is too tight.
      • 6. Wrong needle and thread for cloth being sewn are used.
      • 7. Material pulled excessively.
      • IF LOOPS FORM ON FABRIC
      • 1. Tension of upper or lower thread is wrong.
      • • IF MATERIAL SHOULD PUCKER
      • 1. Thread tension is too tight.
      • 2. Threading is not correct.
      • 3. Thread is caught by something.
      • 4. Lower thread is unevenly wound on bobbin.
      • IF UPPER THREAD BREAKS
      • 1. Upper threading is not correct.
      • 2. Upper thread is too large for needle eye.
      • 3. Upper thread tension is too tight.
      • 4. Needle is inserted incorrectly.
      • • IF LOWER THREADS BREAKS
      • 1. Lower thread is entangled in shuttle.
      • 2. Lower thread tension is too tight.
      • 3. Lower threading is not correct.
      • IF MACHINE SKIPS STITCHES
      • 1. Needle is not sharp and straight.
      • 2. Needle is inserted incorrectly.
      • 3. Wrong needle and thread for cloth being sewn are used.
      • 4. Upper threading is not correct.
      • 5. Lint is clinging to under-side of needle        plate.
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    • M E M O
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  • M E M O.pdf
    • M E M O
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• back page 8x10.pdf
  • Replacement Sewing Manuals
    • From
  • For Reprints Visit on the web. http://www.mastersewusa.com May 2006