Field of application, Nomenclature of parts, Inspection, points to verify – Petzl REVERSO 4 User Manual

Page 4: Compatibility, Installation of the descender, Warnings before and during use, Belaying the leader, Lowering a climber in a toprope situation, Belaying one second in self-braking mode, Abseil descent

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4

D17_REVERSO4_D175000G (190411)

(EN) ENGLISH

Only the techniques shown in the diagrams that are not crossed out and/or do not

display a skull and crossbones symbol are authorized. Check our Web site regularly

to find the latest versions of these documents: www.petzl.com

Contact PETZL if you have any doubt or difficulty understanding these documents.

1. Field of application

Belay / rappel device for climbing and mountaineering.

Compatible with CE (EN 892) and/or UIAA certified dynamic ropes (core + sheath):

- half or twin ropes (2 x 1/2 ropes) ≥ 7.5 mm,

- single ropes ≥ 8.9 mm

This product is designed for rope diameters up to 10.5 mm (11 mm accepted).

This product must not be loaded beyond its strength rating, nor be used for any

purpose other than that for which it is designed.

WARNING

Activities involving the use of this equipment are inherently dangerous.

You are responsible for your own actions and decisions.

Before using this equipment, you must:

- Read and understand all instructions for use.

- Get specific training in its proper use.

- Become acquainted with its capabilities and limitations.

- Understand and accept the risks involved.

Failure to heed any of these warnings may result in severe injury or death.

You must also be familiar with rescue techniques so that a rescue may be

immediately carried out in case of difficulties encountered while using this product.

This implies an adequate training in the necessary rescue techniques.

These instructions only describe the uses of this product, and do not

describe how to belay or rappel.

You must know how to belay and rappel before using this product. Belaying

requires great knowledge, skill, and vigilance on the part of the belayer.

Responsibility

WARNING, specific training in the activities defined in the field of application is

essential before use.

This product must only be used by competent and responsible persons, or those

placed under the direct and visual control of a competent and responsible person.

Gaining an adequate apprenticeship in appropriate techniques and methods of

protection is your own responsibility.

You personally assume all risks and responsibilities for all damage, injury or death

which may occur during or following incorrect use of our products in any manner

whatsoever. If you are not able, or not in a position to assume this responsibility or

to take this risk, do not use this equipment.

2. Nomenclature of parts

(1) Cable, (2) Attachment point, (3) Body, (4) Rope slots, (5) Braking grooves,

(6) Release hole.

Principal materials: aluminum alloy body and nylon-coated steel cable.

Terminology

The term “rope” can mean one or two strands of rope. When using half or twin

ropes, each strand of rope must pass through its own separate rope slot.

3. Inspection, points to verify

Before each use

Verify that the product is free of cracks, deformation, marks, wear, corrosion, etc.

Pay particular attention to sharp edges that can develop with use.

Consult the details of the inspection procedure to be carried out for each item on

the Web at www.petzl.com or on the PETZL PPE CD-ROM. Contact PETZL if there

is any doubt about the condition of this product.

During each use

It is important to regularly monitor the condition of the product and its connections

to the other equipment in the system. Make sure that all pieces of equipment in

the system are correctly positioned with respect to each other. Take care to keep

foreign objects out of the rope slots.

4. Compatibility

Verify that this product is compatible with the other elements of the system in your

application (compatible = good functional interaction).

Ropes

For use with EN 892 dynamic half ropes (2 x 1/2 ropes), twin ropes, or single rope.

When using two strands of rope, the two strands must be similar (diameter,

condition, texture).

WARNING, certain ropes may be slippery, for example new ropes, small diameter

ropes, certain sheath constructions and/or sheath treatments, wet ropes, etc. (see

the instructions specific to the rope).

Braking carabiner

You must use a locking carabiner. This carabiner plays a part in braking by forming

a brake bar for the rope on the body of the REVERSO

4

. The size, shape and position

of the carabiner play an important role in the effectiveness of the REVERSO

4

.

The brake bar, in contact with the REVERSO

4

, must be as straight as possible.

The carabiner must be able to move freely.

5. Installation of the descender

- Clip a locking carabiner to the cable.

- Attach the REVERSO

4

to the belay loop of the harness.

- Single rope: insert a loop of rope into one of the rope slots.

- Half and twin ropes: insert a loop of rope into each of the two rope slots.

- Clip the loop or loops of rope and lock the carabiner.

6. Warnings before and during use

The REVERSO

4

does not automatically stop the rope from sliding through

the device. The belayer must actively stop the rope from sliding in order

to arrest a fall.

Always keep a secure grip on the braking side of the rope.

The belayer must be anchored to the belay before belaying or lowering

a partner.

- The use of gloves is recommended.

- Before use, familiarize yourself with how your rope works with the REVERSO

4

to

get an idea of its braking capabilities.

Cable = 0 kN

The cable has no tensile strength.

WARNING DANGER, do not use the cable to anchor yourself.

The cable prevents the REVERSO

4

from moving too far away from the carabiner

and helps prevent loss of the device. To avoid damaging the cable, take care to

keep the rope from rubbing against it.

7. Belaying the leader

WARNING, the leader’s rope must pass through a directional anchor.

7A. Giving slack.

With the hand gripping the braking side of the rope, push the rope toward the

REVERSO

4

, forming a loop. The hand on the climber’s side of the rope then pulls

the slack rope through the REVERSO

4

.

7B. Taking up slack.

The hand on the climber’s side regularly takes up the slack rope. The hand on the

braking side pulls the rope through the REVERSO

4

.

7C. Arresting a fall.

Pull firmly downward on the braking side of the rope.

8. Lowering a climber in a toprope

situation

Grip the braking side of the rope below the REVERSO

4

with both hands. The

belayer moves one hand over the other down the braking side of the rope. Always

keep a firm grip on the braking side of the rope.

9. Belaying the second with the rope

redirected through a top anchor

See chapte 5: Installation of the descender.

The second’s rope must be redirected through the belay.

10. Belaying one second in self-braking

mode

10A. The self-braking system helps the belayer arrest a fall.

Using the attachment point, attach the REVERSO

4

to the belay with a locking

carabiner.

For greater effectiveness and ease of use when belaying the second, we

recommend positioning yourself so that the REVERSO

4

is in front of you, and at a

comfortable height (above the elbows).

- Insert one or two loops of rope into the rope slot(s).

The climber’s side of the rope is above the braking side of the rope.

Clip a locking carabiner through the loop(s) of rope and the cable.

Pull on the climber’s side of the rope to verify that the self-braking

function stops the climber’s side of the rope from sliding though the

device.

Use both hands to slide the rope regularly through the system. If the second falls,

the self-braking system arrests the fall.

It is very important to always hold the braking side of the rope.

The two strands of rope (climber’s side and braking side) must

stay aligned with the braking grooves and pulled downward (see

diagram: Test).

WARNING DANGER OF DEATH, the carabiner must always be able to move

freely.

10B. Releasing the REVERSO

4

.

Always hold the braking side of the rope.

The belayer wedges a carabiner in the release hole and uses it as a handle.

While firmly gripping the braking side of the rope, pull this handle and tilt the

REVERSO

4

to release the rope. Control of the descent is accomplished by varying

the grip of the brake hand on the braking side of the rope. To stop the descent, grip

the braking rope tightly and release the handle (wedged carabiner).

Never use a different release method, for example with a cord, a sling, etc.

11. Belaying two seconds climbing

together:

Warning, the self-braking function may be

disabled

Rope compatibility

Use two similar ropes (diameter, condition, texture, etc.) having a minimum

diameter of 8.5 mm.

11A. Belaying.

Install the rope following the principle shown in diagram 10A.

WARNING DANGER, the carabiner (brake bar) must be correctly positioned

and must be able to move freely.

11B. Helping the second.

See chapter 10B.

Before releasing a second in suspension, always secure the other second with a

knot.

11C. Self-braking function disabled.

WARNING DANGER, if one of the two seconds is hanging on his rope, the

REVERSO’s self-braking function will not work on the other second’s rope.

Braking is provided by gripping the braking side of the rope.

Always keep a firm grip on both strands of rope on the braking side.

Take up slack regularly in both ends to limit the effects of a fall.

12. Abseil descent

Install the two strands of rope in the REVERSO

4

as shown in chapter 5. To brake,

tighten your grip on the braking side of the ropes.

Use a rappel backup system (SHUNT or self-locking knot) below the

REVERSO

4

.

13. Adjusting the braking

In most cases, choose the position: braking side of the rope running in the braking

grooves (see chapter 5).

In other cases, adjust the braking position as needed for different user weights,

rope diameters, applications and weather conditions. For less friction, reverse the

rope path through the device. The braking side of the rope runs over the side of the

device opposite the braking grooves.

14. General information

Lifetime

WARNING, in extreme cases, the lifetime of the product can be reduced to one

single use through exposure to for example any of the following: chemicals,

extreme temperatures, sharp edges, major fall or load, etc.

The potential lifetime of Petzl products is as follows: up to 10 years from the date

of manufacture for plastic and textile products. It is indefinite for metallic products.

The actual lifetime of a product ends when it meets one of the retirement criteria

listed below (see “When to retire your equipment”), or when in its system use it is

judged obsolete.

The actual lifetime is influenced by a variety of factors such as: the intensity,

frequency, and environment of use, the competence of the user, how well the

product is stored and maintained, etc.

Inspect equipment periodically for damage and/or deterioration.

In addition to the inspection before and during use, a periodic in-depth inspection

must be carried out by a competent inspector. This inspection must be performed

at least once every 12 months. The frequency of the in-depth inspection must

be governed by the type and the intensity of use. To keep better track of your

equipment, it is preferable to assign each piece of equipment to a unique user so

that he will know its history. The results of inspections should be documented

in an “inspection record”. This document must allow recording of the following

details: type of equipment, model, name and contact information of the

manufacturer or distributor, means of identification (serial or individual number),

year of manufacture, date of purchase, date of first use, name of user, all other

pertinent information for example maintenance and frequency of use, the history of

periodic inspections (date / comments and noted problems / name and signature

of the competent person who performed the inspection / anticipated date of next

inspection). See example of detailed inspection record and other informational

tools available at www.petzl.com/ppe

When to retire your equipment

Immediately retire any equipment if:

- it fails to pass inspection (inspection before and during use and the periodic

in-depth inspection),

- it has been subjected to a major fall or load,

- you do not know its full usage history,

- it is at least 10 years old and made of plastics or textiles,

- you have any doubt as to its integrity.

Destroy retired equipment to prevent further use.

Product obsolescence

There are many reasons why a product may be judged obsolete and thus

retired before the end of its actual lifetime. Examples include: changes in

applicable standards, regulations, or legislation; development of new techniques,

incompatibility with other equipment, etc.

Modifications, repairs

Any modification, addition to, or repair of the equipment other than that authorized

by Petzl is prohibited due to the risk of reducing the effectiveness of the equipment.

Guarantee

This product is guaranteed for 3 years against any faults in materials or

manufacture. Exclusions from the guarantee: normal wear and tear, oxidation,

modifications or alterations, incorrect storage, poor maintenance, damage due to

accidents, to negligence, and to uses for which this product was not designed.

PETZL is not responsible for the consequences, direct, indirect or accidental, or

any other type of damage befalling or resulting from the use of its products.

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