Petzl REVERSO 4 - Manual (Page 4)

4 D17_REVERSO4_D175000G (190411)
(EN) ENGLISH
Only the techniques shown in the diagrams that are not crossed out and/or do not
display a skull and crossbones symbol are authorized. Check our Web site regularly
to find the latest versions of these documents: www.petzl.com
Contact PETZL if you have any doubt or difficulty understanding these documents.
1. Field of application
Belay / rappel device for climbing and mountaineering.
Compatible with CE (EN 892) and/or UIAA certified dynamic ropes (core + sheath):
- half or twin ropes (2 x 1/2 ropes) ≥ 7.5 mm,
- single ropes ≥ 8.9 mm
This product is designed for rope diameters up to 10.5 mm (11 mm accepted).
This product must not be loaded beyond its strength rating, nor be used for any
purpose other than that for which it is designed.
WARNING
Activities involving the use of this equipment are inherently dangerous.
You are responsible for your own actions and decisions.
Before using this equipment, you must:
- Read and understand all instructions for use.
- Get specific training in its proper use.
- Become acquainted with its capabilities and limitations.
- Understand and accept the risks involved.
Failure to heed any of these warnings may result in severe injury or death.
You must also be familiar with rescue techniques so that a rescue may be
immediately carried out in case of difficulties encountered while using this product.
This implies an adequate training in the necessary rescue techniques.
These instructions only describe the uses of this product, and do not
describe how to belay or rappel.
You must know how to belay and rappel before using this product. Belaying
requires great knowledge, skill, and vigilance on the part of the belayer.
Responsibility
WARNING, specific training in the activities defined in the field of application is
essential before use.
This product must only be used by competent and responsible persons, or those
placed under the direct and visual control of a competent and responsible person.
Gaining an adequate apprenticeship in appropriate techniques and methods of
protection is your own responsibility.
You personally assume all risks and responsibilities for all damage, injury or death
which may occur during or following incorrect use of our products in any manner
whatsoever. If you are not able, or not in a position to assume this responsibility or
to take this risk, do not use this equipment.
2. Nomenclature of parts
(1) Cable, (2) Attachment point, (3) Body, (4) Rope slots, (5) Braking grooves,
(6) Release hole.
Principal materials: aluminum alloy body and nylon-coated steel cable.
Terminology
The term “rope” can mean one or two strands of rope. When using half or twin
ropes, each strand of rope must pass through its own separate rope slot.
3. Inspection, points to verify
Before each use
Verify that the product is free of cracks, deformation, marks, wear, corrosion, etc.
Pay particular attention to sharp edges that can develop with use.
Consult the details of the inspection procedure to be carried out for each item on
the Web at www.petzl.com or on the PETZL PPE CD-ROM. Contact PETZL if there
is any doubt about the condition of this product.
During each use
It is important to regularly monitor the condition of the product and its connections
to the other equipment in the system. Make sure that all pieces of equipment in
the system are correctly positioned with respect to each other. Take care to keep
foreign objects out of the rope slots.
4. Compatibility
Verify that this product is compatible with the other elements of the system in your
application (compatible = good functional interaction).
Ropes
For use with EN 892 dynamic half ropes (2 x 1/2 ropes), twin ropes, or single rope.
When using two strands of rope, the two strands must be similar (diameter,
condition, texture).
WARNING, certain ropes may be slippery, for example new ropes, small diameter
ropes, certain sheath constructions and/or sheath treatments, wet ropes, etc. (see
the instructions specific to the rope).
Braking carabiner
You must use a locking carabiner. This carabiner plays a part in braking by forming
a brake bar for the rope on the body of the REVERSO 4 . The size, shape and position
of the carabiner play an important role in the effectiveness of the REVERSO 4 .
The brake bar, in contact with the REVERSO 4 , must be as straight as possible.
The carabiner must be able to move freely.
5. Installation of the descender
- Clip a locking carabiner to the cable.
- Attach the REVERSO 4 to the belay loop of the harness.
- Single rope: insert a loop of rope into one of the rope slots.
- Half and twin ropes: insert a loop of rope into each of the two rope slots.
- Clip the loop or loops of rope and lock the carabiner.
6. Warnings before and during use
The REVERSO 4 does not automatically stop the rope from sliding through
the device. The belayer must actively stop the rope from sliding in order
to arrest a fall.
Always keep a secure grip on the braking side of the rope.
The belayer must be anchored to the belay before belaying or lowering
a partner.
- The use of gloves is recommended.
- Before use, familiarize yourself with how your rope works with the REVERSO 4 to
get an idea of its braking capabilities.
Cable = 0 kN
The cable has no tensile strength.
WARNING DANGER, do not use the cable to anchor yourself.
The cable prevents the REVERSO 4 from moving too far away from the carabiner
and helps prevent loss of the device. To avoid damaging the cable, take care to
keep the rope from rubbing against it.
7. Belaying the leader
WARNING, the leader’s rope must pass through a directional anchor.
7A. Giving slack.
With the hand gripping the braking side of the rope, push the rope toward the
REVERSO 4 , forming a loop. The hand on the climber’s side of the rope then pulls
the slack rope through the REVERSO 4 .
7B. Taking up slack.
The hand on the climber’s side regularly takes up the slack rope. The hand on the
braking side pulls the rope through the REVERSO 4 .
7C. Arresting a fall.
Pull firmly downward on the braking side of the rope.
8. Lowering a climber in a toprope
situation
Grip the braking side of the rope below the REVERSO 4 with both hands. The
belayer moves one hand over the other down the braking side of the rope. Always
keep a firm grip on the braking side of the rope.
9. Belaying the second with the rope
redirected through a top anchor
See chapte 5: Installation of the descender.
The second’s rope must be redirected through the belay.
10. Belaying one second in self-braking
mode
10A. The self-braking system helps the belayer arrest a fall.
Using the attachment point, attach the REVERSO 4 to the belay with a locking
carabiner.
For greater effectiveness and ease of use when belaying the second, we
recommend positioning yourself so that the REVERSO 4 is in front of you, and at a
comfortable height (above the elbows).
- Insert one or two loops of rope into the rope slot(s).
The climber’s side of the rope is above the braking side of the rope.
Clip a locking carabiner through the loop(s) of rope and the cable.
Pull on the climber’s side of the rope to verify that the self-braking
function stops the climber’s side of the rope from sliding though the
device.
Use both hands to slide the rope regularly through the system. If the second falls,
the self-braking system arrests the fall.
It is very important to always hold the braking side of the rope.
The two strands of rope (climber’s side and braking side) must
stay aligned with the braking grooves and pulled downward (see
diagram: Test).
WARNING DANGER OF DEATH, the carabiner must always be able to move
freely.
10B. Releasing the REVERSO 4 .
Always hold the braking side of the rope.
The belayer wedges a carabiner in the release hole and uses it as a handle.
While firmly gripping the braking side of the rope, pull this handle and tilt the
REVERSO 4 to release the rope. Control of the descent is accomplished by varying
the grip of the brake hand on the braking side of the rope. To stop the descent, grip
the braking rope tightly and release the handle (wedged carabiner).
Never use a different release method, for example with a cord, a sling, etc.
11. Belaying two seconds climbing
together:
Warning, the self-braking function may be
disabled
Rope compatibility
Use two similar ropes (diameter, condition, texture, etc.) having a minimum
diameter of 8.5 mm.
11A. Belaying.
Install the rope following the principle shown in diagram 10A.
WARNING DANGER, the carabiner (brake bar) must be correctly positioned
and must be able to move freely.
11B. Helping the second.
See chapter 10B.
Before releasing a second in suspension, always secure the other second with a
knot.
11C. Self-braking function disabled.
WARNING DANGER, if one of the two seconds is hanging on his rope, the
REVERSO’s self-braking function will not work on the other second’s rope.
Braking is provided by gripping the braking side of the rope.
Always keep a firm grip on both strands of rope on the braking side.
Take up slack regularly in both ends to limit the effects of a fall.
12. Abseil descent
Install the two strands of rope in the REVERSO 4 as shown in chapter 5. To brake,
tighten your grip on the braking side of the ropes.
Use a rappel backup system (SHUNT or self-locking knot) below the
REVERSO 4 .
13. Adjusting the braking
In most cases, choose the position: braking side of the rope running in the braking
grooves (see chapter 5).
In other cases, adjust the braking position as needed for different user weights,
rope diameters, applications and weather conditions. For less friction, reverse the
rope path through the device. The braking side of the rope runs over the side of the
device opposite the braking grooves.
14. General information
Lifetime
WARNING, in extreme cases, the lifetime of the product can be reduced to one
single use through exposure to for example any of the following: chemicals,
extreme temperatures, sharp edges, major fall or load, etc.
The potential lifetime of Petzl products is as follows: up to 10 years from the date
of manufacture for plastic and textile products. It is indefinite for metallic products.
The actual lifetime of a product ends when it meets one of the retirement criteria
listed below (see “When to retire your equipment”), or when in its system use it is
judged obsolete.
The actual lifetime is influenced by a variety of factors such as: the intensity,
frequency, and environment of use, the competence of the user, how well the
product is stored and maintained, etc.
Inspect equipment periodically for damage and/or deterioration.
In addition to the inspection before and during use, a periodic in-depth inspection
must be carried out by a competent inspector. This inspection must be performed
at least once every 12 months. The frequency of the in-depth inspection must
be governed by the type and the intensity of use. To keep better track of your
equipment, it is preferable to assign each piece of equipment to a unique user so
that he will know its history. The results of inspections should be documented
in an “inspection record”. This document must allow recording of the following
details: type of equipment, model, name and contact information of the
manufacturer or distributor, means of identification (serial or individual number),
year of manufacture, date of purchase, date of first use, name of user, all other
pertinent information for example maintenance and frequency of use, the history of
periodic inspections (date / comments and noted problems / name and signature
of the competent person who performed the inspection / anticipated date of next
inspection). See example of detailed inspection record and other informational
tools available at www.petzl.com/ppe
When to retire your equipment
Immediately retire any equipment if:
- it fails to pass inspection (inspection before and during use and the periodic
in-depth inspection),
- it has been subjected to a major fall or load,
- you do not know its full usage history,
- it is at least 10 years old and made of plastics or textiles,
- you have any doubt as to its integrity.
Destroy retired equipment to prevent further use.
Product obsolescence
There are many reasons why a product may be judged obsolete and thus
retired before the end of its actual lifetime. Examples include: changes in
applicable standards, regulations, or legislation; development of new techniques,
incompatibility with other equipment, etc.
Modifications, repairs
Any modification, addition to, or repair of the equipment other than that authorized
by Petzl is prohibited due to the risk of reducing the effectiveness of the equipment.
Guarantee
This product is guaranteed for 3 years against any faults in materials or
manufacture. Exclusions from the guarantee: normal wear and tear, oxidation,
modifications or alterations, incorrect storage, poor maintenance, damage due to
accidents, to negligence, and to uses for which this product was not designed.
PETZL is not responsible for the consequences, direct, indirect or accidental, or
any other type of damage befalling or resulting from the use of its products.