Fabricator 181i – Tweco 181i Thermal Arc Fabricator User Manual

Page 71

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Fabricator 181i

Manual 0-5191

4-13

BASIC WELDING GUIDE

Making Welded Joints
Having attained some skill in the handling of an electrode, you will be ready to go on to make up welded joints.

A. Butt Welds

Set up two plates with their edges parallel, as shown in Figure 4-21, allowing 1/16"(1.6mm) to 3/32"(2.4mm)

gap between them and tack weld at both ends. This is to prevent contraction stresses from the cooling weld

metal pulling the plates out of alignment. Plates thicker than 1/4" (6.4mm) should have their mating edges

beveled to form a 70º to 90º included angle. This allows full penetration of the weld metal to the root. Using

a 1/8"(3.2mm) E7014 Stick electrode at 100 amps, deposit a run of weld metal on the bottom of the joint.

Do not weave the electrode, but maintain a steady rate of travel along the joint sufficient to produce a well-

formed bead. At first you may notice a tendency for undercut to form, but keeping the arc length short, the

angle of the electrode at about 20º from vertical, and the rate of travel not too fast, will help eliminate this.

The electrode needs to be moved along fast enough to prevent the slag pool from getting ahead of the arc.

To complete the joint in thin plate, turn the job over, clean the slag out of the back and deposit a similar weld.

Art # A-07697_AB

Tack Weld

20°-30°

Electrode

Tack Weld

Figure 4-21: Butt Weld

Art # A-07698

Figure 4-22: Weld Build up Sequence

Heavy plate will require several runs to complete the joint. After completing the first run, chip the slag out and

clean the weld with a wire brush. It is important to do this to prevent slag being trapped by the second run.

Subsequent runs are then deposited using either a weave technique or single beads laid down in the sequence

shown in Figure 4-22. The width of weave should not be more than three times the core wire diameter of the

electrode. When the joint is completely filled, the back is either machined, ground or gouged out to remove slag

which may be trapped in the root, and to prepare a suitable joint for depositing the backing run. If a backing

bar is used, it is not usually necessary to remove this, since it serves a similar purpose to the backing run in

securing proper fusion at the root of the weld.

B. Fillet Welds

These are welds of approximately triangular cross-section made by depositing metal in the corner of two faces

meeting at right angles. Refer to Figure 4-14.

A piece of angle iron is a suitable specimen with which to begin, or two lengths of strip steel may be tacked

together at right angles. Using a 1/8"(3.2mm) E7014 Stick electrode at 100 amps, position angle iron with

one leg horizontal and the other vertical. This is known as a horizontal-vertical (HV) fillet. Strike the arc and

immediately bring the electrode to a position perpendicular to the line of the fillet and about 45º from the vertical.

Some electrodes require to be sloped about 20º away from the perpendicular position to prevent slag from

running ahead of the weld. Refer to Figure 4-23. Do not attempt to build up much larger than 1/4"(6.4mm)width

with a 1/8"(3.2mm) electrode, otherwise the weld metal tends to sag towards the base, and undercut forms

on the vertical leg. Multi-runs can be made as shown in Figure 4-24. Weaving in HV fillet welds is undesirable.

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