SINGER W1240 - Manual (Page 30)

Various fabrics require various methods of
sewing buttonholes. Four different methods
are given below, with suggested uses. If you
are in doubt as to which method is best for
your fabric, test the methods in question and
choose the best according to the finished
appearance.
PREPARATION
For the best results, a good quality merceriz­
ed cotton thread should be used. Polyester
threads often result in puckered or heavy
unattractive buttonholes. The finer your
fabric is, the finer your cotton thread should
be. An interfacing should be used under the
buttonholes to give body, to strengthen, and
to help them withstand wear. To establish
the correct length of the buttonhole, add the
diameter of the button ( A ) , plus the thick­
ness of the button (B), plus 1/8 inch for the
bartacks. The length may be marked on the
garment with a basting stitch, tailors chalk,
or transparent tape, as shown. Another way
to make sure that all buttonholes will be the
same size is to cut a piece of cardboard as
wide as the buttonhole foot and long
enough to make the distance between the
toe of the white slide and the cardboard the
size buttonhole needed. This method works
for buttonholes up to 1-1/8 inches long.
Horizontal buttonholes should extend 1/8
inch beyond the center line of the garment.
Vertical buttonholes are placed so that the
cutting space of the buttonhole is directly on
the center line. Always make a practice
buttonhole on a scrap of the garment fabric
before making any buttonholes on your gar­
ment. On your test sample, duplicate the
thickness found in the garment and be sure
to include the interfacing. The test sample
should help determine the length needed for
the button to pass through easily, and the
stitch length for the particular fabric. As with
the satin stitch, the stitches should be close
together, but not so close that they pile up.
Be sure to use the buttonhole foot.
BUTTONHOLES
1/8 inch
Center line of Garment
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