Work Sharp WS3000 Woodworking Tool Sharpener User Guide - Manual (Page 11)

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6
Sharpening
Straight-Edged Tools
☛
Master Tip: Sharpen even new tools
It is imperative to sharpen a new tool before use. Most manu-
facturers only rough grind a tool and do not properly flatten
the back or hone the primary bevel angle. The entire back does
not need to be flat, only the third of the chisel back from the
cutting edge to the handle needs to be flat.
See fig. 6-2. Once
this is done to a new tool, it does not need to be done again, un-
less the tool has become damaged or you have sharpened past
the third of the back you have already flattened. For best tool
performance and ease of use, a new tool must be sharpened to
achieve a flat back and keen bevel edge. New tools often come
coated in lacquer, or some type of hardened protective coat-
ing. For best results, remove this coating with paint or lacquer
thinner before sharpening. This will keep your Abrasives from
loading up and needing premature replacement.
☛
Master Tip
Be sure to lay the tool down heel first and not cutting edge
first on the right side of the wheel. This will ensure that you do
not grind material away from the tool back at the cutting edge,
which makes it very difficult to sharpen to a keen edge. If you
do accidentally remove material from the chisel back at the
cutting edge, you must continue to grind the tool back flat until
the damage is removed. It may take a long time to perform this
task, but it is crucial to achieving a keen cutting edge.
STEP 1 • Flatten the tool back
Mount your coarse
Abrasive Wheel with
P120 face up to flatten
the chisel or plane iron
back. Turn on the unit
and use the freehand
method to flatten the
tool back by carefully
placing the tool back
onto the right side of
the wheel (so the wheel
is spinning away from
you).
See fig. 6-1.
STEP 2 • Sharpen the primary bevel
The WORK SHARP ® unit has the ability to sharpen precise and repeat-
able bevel angles of 20°, 25°, 30° and 35°. To change Sharpening Port
angles, place your thumb on the heat sink while grasping the Bevel
Angle Selection Lever with your fingers. Squeeze thumb and fingers
together to release spring-loaded tooth engagement.
See fig. 6-3. Pull
Sharpening Port all the way up to get a 20° bevel angle, move down
one click for a 25° bevel angle. Move down two clicks for a 30° bevel
angle, and all the way down to the bottom for a 35° bevel angle. Re-
lease thumb and finger squeeze to engage teeth to hold selected angle.
Look through the Bevel Angle Se-
lection Window on the right side of
Sharpening Port next to the Fence
Alignment Knob to reference the
angle selected.
Once you have selected the
desired Sharpening Port angle,
you can proceed to fit the tool into
the Sharpening Port. To do so, lay
the tool to be sharpened into the
Sharpening Port back down (bevel
up) so that it lies flat on the heat
sink surface. The Sharpening Port
offers a guide rail on each side and
also an Adjustable Fence to ensure
a square bevel grind.
Tools under ½" wide can be sharpened on the left side of Port,
while tools wider than ½" should be sharpened on the right side of
the Port. See fig. 6-4. This is due to the varying Wheel speed at differ-
ent surface points. The center of the Wheel has a slower surface speed
and is less likely to overheat a smaller tool.
Once the tool is placed on the proper side of the Port, move the
Fence lightly against tool using the Fence Alignment Knob. See fig.
6-5. Leave the Fence just loose enough for the tool to slide between
the Fence and guide rail. Slide tool (bevel up) into the Sharpening Port
between the Fence and guide rail and contact the Abrasive Wheel for
1–2 seconds (longer will only produce more heat and a large burr wire).
Pull the tool away from the Wheel no less than one inch, while keep-
Unlapped
Lapped
Fig. 6-1
Fig. 6-2
Fig. 6-3
Fig. 6-4
Fig. 6-5