Losi LOSB0289 Drift R Manual - Manual (Page 35)

Front End:
Shock Location; Leaning the shocks in (mounting them closer to the center of the tower) will give a smoother transition as
you enter into turns and improve consistency but will yield less total steering and give a slower reaction. This might be
helpful on high bite surfaces. Standing the shocks up (mounting them further out from the center of the tower) will increase
responsiveness and generate more total steering. Forward traction is also increased, as is on-power steering. When moving he
shocks to a more upright position you may find that you will have to change to a softer spring to smooth out the reaction.
This might work well on shorter more technical tracks.
Toe-in/Out; is the parallel relationship of front tires to one another. Toe-in/out adjustments are made by changing the total
length of the steering rods. If the front tires appear to be pointing inward to a spot in front of the car (toe-in) you can expect
the car to react a little slower but have a little more steering from the middle of the turn out. The opposite is true if the front
tires appear to be pointing to points in front and to either side of the car (toe-out). This (toe-out) will make the car turn into
the corner better but will allow less steering from the middle of the corner out.
Camber Link; Making the camber link shorter (moving it further away from the center of the tower) tends to give more off-
power steering into the turn but can also make the steering feel a bit erratic. Making the camber link longer (moving it closer
to the center of the tower) will slow down the reaction of the steering but will make the chassis more forgiving.
Camber; refers to the angle of the wheels/tires in relation to the track surface when viewed from the front or back. Negative
camber means that the top of the tire leans inward toward the chassis. Positive camber means the top of the tire leans out
away from the chassis. You should never need to run positive camber and will always want to run at least a little negative
camber. You can use any square object to check this by placing it so one edge is flat on the surface and the other is up against
the outer surface of the wheel. There should always be at least a slight gap at the top of the wheel (negative camber). There
should never be a gap at the bottom of the wheel (positive camber). Adding 1 degree front camber will typically increase
steering but ideally the camber is adjusted to get even tire wear across the tire.
Front Kickup/Anti-dive; is the angle of the front arms in relation to the track surface. The kickup is controlled by the pivot
blocks that mount the inner hinge pins of the front suspension arms to the chassis. You have three options with the included
mounts, 0, 2, and 4 degrees. The front is marked with a "4F" and a "0F" at the middle of the surface facing forward. If this
block is mounted with the "4F" at the top there is 4 degrees of kickup, if the "0F" is at the top there is no kickup. The other
included pivot block is labeled "2F" and gives 2 degrees. The "4F" setting is best for bumpy surfaces and makes the car very
forgiving. As you reduce the amount of kickup the steering will get more aggressive entering the turn. Reducing this will also
improve front braking traction entering turns but will reduce the chassis' ability to handle bumpy surfaces.
Caster; is the angle of the kingpin from vertical when viewed from the side. You will always run zero or a few degrees of
positive caster where the top of the kingpin leans back toward the rear of the car. Total caster is determined by adding the
amount of kickup and the amount of kingpin inclination of the front spindle carriers. The stock spindle carriers in the kit are
0 degree, which mean the total caster is determined by the kickup. Reducing total caster will give less off power steering while
giving more on power steering on exit. More caster will give greater steering into the turn but less power as you exit.
Arm Spacing; allows you to change both the wheel base and driveshaft angle slightly. By placing the spacers between the
front pivot block and the front of the arm (moving the arm back) on the hinge pin, you get a quicker reaction and slightly
better forward grip. This is good for shorter/technical tracks. Placing the spacers all at the rear of the arm (moving the arm
forward) adds stability and slows down the initial reaction which might help on longer high speed tracks.
Front Diff; running the diff a little tighter will give less off power turn-in but increase on power steering as you exit a turn.
Running it a little looser will give more initial turn-in but make the car want to "push" (lose steering) on exit.
Front Droop; is the amount of down travel the shocks allow the suspension arms to move. With standard 2.5" tall tires you
will want to maintain between a 2mm and 4mm shock droop. This is easily measured by removing the front tires and setting
the chassis on the droop gauge (included) so that the gauge extends across the chassis with the graduated notches to one side.
Slide the gauge inward using the set screw boss on the bottom of the spindle carrier as your reference. The set screw boss
should just clear the 2mm (minimum) step. Repeat this for the other side making sure that both sides are the same. Less
droop makes the chassis react quicker but is not as good on bumpy tracks. More droop reduces steering into the turn and
slows down the overall reaction. This will also make the chassis more stable on bumpy surfaces.
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