Universal Laser Systems X2-600 - Manual (Page 101)

Sample Materials 6-37
COMMENTS
When engraving wood with a laser, a brown, maple syrup like residue will deposit on the surface of the
wood. This is normal and impossible to eliminate by
POWER, SPEED, or PPI changes. More residue
will be present when engraving deeper and/or slower. This residue washes off with water and a sponge.
We recommend using a kitchen sponge with a nylon string mesh wrapped around it. Dampen the sponge
and wipe off the residue. A damp chamois cloth works well also. Do not use paper towels or a regular
sponge because these materials will get lodged in the engraved area when wiping and are extremely
difficult to remove. A method to avoid cleanup is to mask the wood with transfer tape and peel off the
tape after engraving. If desired, after engraving and before peeling off the tape, spray paint can be
applied to color fill the engraved areas. After the paint dries, peel off the tape. If an intricate drawing has
been engraved and there are many small pieces of tape to remove, it may be easier to flood the masking,
after engraving, with water. This will loosen the tape and it can be easily removed by rubbing it off by
hand. In the vector cutting example, the wood was elevated from the table to let smoke and heat escape
from underneath. If elevating the wood, mask and/or dampen the bottom side of the wood very lightly
and the water acts as a heat sink to prevent the underside from flaming and charring. Elevating the wood
also helps to determine whether the laser has passed completely through since the cut pieces will fall
through to the table when cutting is finished. If raising the wood, set up the drawing so that the inner
pieces of the drawing are cut first, otherwise pieces may fall through at the wrong time.
Not all wood finishes are created equal. When ordering wood from a supplier, be sure to specify that it is
being used for laser engraving. Some finishes cannot handle the heat from the laser and will bubble,
blister, and possibly turn white. For engraving softer woods such as pine or balsa, reduce the power
settings to acquire the best depth. Engraving too deep on soft woods will reduce quality. Every type of
wood will engrave differently. It is better to engrave woods that are finished. If engraving unfinished
wood and it is not masked with transfer tape, the smoke residue tends to embed in the wood and is
impossible to remove without sanding. To prevent this, mask all unfinished wood with transfer tape.
WOOD INLAYS - VENEERS
Create a drawing with no outlines, only filled areas. Engrave the filled areas almost as deep as the
thickness of the veneer (usually about .003 inches (.1 mm) or less). With some water and a nylon brush,
remove all residue from the engraved area. When cutting veneers make sure they are lying absolutely
flat. In the drawing, give the objects an outline of .001 inches (.1 mm) and remove the fill. Adjust the
power so that there is just enough power to cut completely through the veneer. Overpowering the cut will
cause too much material removal and the fit will not be snug. Some software programs allow outline
offsetting to compensate for the thickness of the beam called contouring. Usually, a contour to the
outside of the vector line of .006 inches provides a tight fit. Remember if using more power to cut through
the veneer, compensate for the thicker width of the laser cut by contouring a little further to the outside.
Another method is to first create your graphic and fill it with the color black. Then give it a white outline of
.012 inches (.3 mm). If you look at the graphic when you add the outline, you will see that it appears to
shrink. Now raster engrave the graphic to a depth slightly shallower than the thickness of the veneer.
When the engraving is finished, place the veneer into the laser system. Remove the black fill and change
the outline to a different color. Cut out the veneer