Component troubleshooting, Lamp issues – PRG Bad Boy Field Service Manual User Manual
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BAD BOY
®
SPOT LUMINAIRE FIELD SERVICE MANUAL
Component Troubleshooting
This section provides troubleshooting guidelines for isolating problems down to the Spares Kit Sub-Assembly level.
(Refer to
for a list of all spares components.)
Lamp Issues
Lamp will not strike or there is a loss of lamp output
Details: A loud popping sound and/or loss of lamp output is an indication of lamp failure.
Procedure: Remove backcap and inspect lamp (
).
Solution: Replace Lamp...
Lamp has failed and damage to the UV/IR Window Assembly is suspected
Details: The UV/IR Window can be damaged by a non-passive failure of the lamp. A loud popping sound and/or loss of lamp
output indicates the lamp has failed. This almost always breaks the reflector and can crack one or more of the four panes in the
UV/IR Window Assembly.
Procedure: Remove backcap and inspect lamp (
). Remove what is left of lamp and inspect UV/IR Window for damage.
Solution: Replace UV/IR Window Assembly...
Lamp has failed and damage to the Reflector is suspected
Details: The Reflector can be damaged by a non-passive failure of the lamp. A loud popping sound and/or loss of lamp output
indicates the lamp has failed. This almost always breaks the reflector.
Procedure: Remove backcap and inspect lamp (
). Remove what is left of the lamp and inspect reflector for damage.
Solution: Replace Reflector...
Lamp will not strike, but there are no fan errors on the Status screen and Ignitor PCB is okay
Details: If the lamp does not strike after the command is given, but there are no fan errors on the Status screen and the Ignitor
PCB is known-good, it may indicate that the Ballast has failed.
Procedure: Remove both Enclosure Covers (
). Remove the RF screen covering the end of the ballast closest to the
Neutrik power input. Apply power again and verify 208 VAC is present at the input terminals on the ballast. (The input terminals
are on either side of the two fuses.) If you have 208 VAC coming into the ballast, you will need to verify if the ballast is
outputting 400 VDC. Remove power from fixture and carefully remove lamp (
). Power-up the fixture and when the
calibration is complete, start the lamp from the Menu Touchscreen and measure the voltage across the ballast output
terminals. You should read 400 VDC across the two terminals. If you do not read 400 VDC, power down the fixture and unplug
the 6-pin Ballast Control Cable from the ballast. Using a 2-pin jumper or a Berg Header, install the jumper on the 2-pin header
above where the ballast control cable was connected. When these two pins are shorted, the ballast will automatically strike as
soon as power is applied. Apply power to fixture and carefully check to see if you read 400 VDC across the ballast output
terminals. If you have 208 VAC on the input, and with the test jumper installed you do not see 400VDC on the output terminals,
the ballast is faulty and needs to be replaced.
Solution: Replace EMI Ballast Enclosure...
Lamp will not strike, but there are no fan errors on the Status screen and Ballast is okay
Details: If the lamp does not strike after the command is given, but there are no fan errors on the Status screen and the Ballast
is known-good, it may indicate that the Ignitor PCB has failed.
Procedure: Remove Tilt-Side Yoke Cover to access Ignitor PCB (
). Verify that relay is wired correctly and engages upon
fixture power-up. Verify the polarity of the power input cables to the Igniter and ensure they are on the correct terminals.
Carefully remove lamp from fixture (
). When the Lamp Start command is given, you should read 400 VDC on the input
terminals of the Ignitor and a red neon lamp will glow on the PCB. If red neon lamp does not glow, then the Ignitor has failed.
Solution: Replace Ignitor PCB...