SINGER 814 Stylist - Manual (Page 41)

PLAIN STRETCH SEAMS
® f/ex/-Si/ic/7 Pattern Dial: Red |
® Pattern Selector: Any setting
@ Needle Position:
I
® Stitch Width: |
® Stitch Length Dial: Red «
® General Purpose Needle Plate
® General Purpose Foot
® Speed: Moderate
When you use the straight stretch
stitch to seam knit stretch, and
elasticized fabric, s-t-r-e-t-c-h and
strength are built in as the seam is
being sewn. Because it is equally
useful for closed or press-open seam
construction and will not break
thread under stress, the straight
stretch stitch is also good for seams
that receive an unusual amount of
strain when worn. For example:
crotch seaming, sleeve Insertion, and
construction seams in sportswear
and bathing suits.
Procedure
1. Make a test sample to determine
thread tension and stitch balance.
Straight Stretch Stitching
Be sure to insert a ball-point
(yellow band) needle In machine
if you are stitching a synthetic
knit fabric, and increase presser
bar pressure if necessary.
2. Stitch and guide fabric as you do
for plain seams stitched with the
regular straight stitch, letting the
machine make the back-
and-forth stitches that give
s-t-r-e-t-c-h to the seam. If
fabric has an unusual amount of
elasticity, it should be stitched
under tension as Instructed below
under "Guiding and Supporting
Fabric."
3. Press seam as when using the
regular straight stitch.
GUIDING AND SUPPORTING
FABRIC
Most fabrics of stretch or knit
construction need only to be guided
in front of the presser foot when you
use one of the stretch stitches.
Simply increase presser bar pressure
and let the machine move the fabric
to make the stitches that give
s-t-r-e-t-c-h to the seam.
Some fabrics, however, require
support while being stitched.
® For nylon tricot, ciré, panné velvet
and similar synthetic knits, apply
gentle tension by holding fabric
taut in front and back of the
presser foot as you sew.
CAUTION: Do not puH the fabric
while you are stitching as this may
deflect the needle causing it to
break.
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