SkyTrak 8042 Service Manual User Manual

Page 562

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8.147

Model 8042, 10042, 10054 Legacy

Rev. 10/03

Hydraulic System

5. Use a pin spanner wrench to unthread the head

gland (9) from the tube (2). The head gland is
installed at a torque of 300 ±50 lb-ft (407 ±68 Nm),
so a considerable amount of force is required to
remove it. Carefully slide the head gland down along
the rod toward the eyelet end, away from the cylinder
tube.

IMPORTANT: Protect the finish on the rod at all times.
Damage to the rod can cause premature seal failure.

6. Carefully withdraw the rod (10) straight out of the

tube (2). Keep the rod straight during withdrawal to
help avoid scratching, nicking or damaging the tube.

IMPORTANT: When sliding the rod and piston assembly
out of the tube, DO NOT damage the piston (11) b
y
scraping it against the threads in the tube. Keep the rod
in line with the tube to prevent binding.

7. Secure the rod eyelet and remove the locknut (12)

from the threaded end of the rod.

Note: Heating the nut to approximately 300° F (150° C)
may also be required to break the seal formed by the
Loctite Threadlocker #271 (red) applied to the nut when
installed. The application of significant force is required
to overcome the 1175-1400 lb-ft (1593-1898 Nm) of
torque the nut was tightened to when originally installed.

8. Remove the piston (11) from the rod (10).

9. Remove the small o-ring (13) from the groove in the

end of the rod (10). Remove the precision wearband
(14) and the capped T-seal (15) from the piston (11).

Note: The T-seal actually consists of four components; a
wide, flexible inner band, the flexible T-seal band itself,
and two supportive split caps that mount on either side of
the “T” seal band.

10. Remove the head gland (9) from the rod (10).

11. Remove the o-ring (16), the back-up ring (17) and

the o-ring (18) from the head gland (9).

12. Remove the heavy-duty rod wiper (19). Remove the

precision wearbands (20) and deep Z-seal with rod
back-up (21) from inside the head gland (9).

Note: Discard all seals and o-rings. ALWAYS replace
seals, o-rings, gaskets, etc. with new parts to help
ensure proper sealing and operation.

c. Stabilizer Cylinder Internal Cleaning

1. Remove all hydraulic fluid, dirt and debris from the

inner surface of the cylinder.

2. Discard all seals, back-up rings and o-rings. Replace

with new items from the complete seal kits (22) to
help ensure proper cylinder function.

3. Clean all metal parts with an approved cleaning

solvent such as trichlorethylene. Carefully clean
cavities, grooves, threads, etc.

d. Stabilizer Cylinder Inspection and Repair

1. Inspect all parts for wear and damage. If inner

surfaces of the cylinder (1) DO NOT display an ultra-
smooth, polished finish, or are damaged in any way,
replace the damaged part. Often, dirty hydraulic fluid
causes failure of internal seals and damage to the
polished surfaces within the component.

2. Inspect the inside of the tube (2) for scoring and

other damage. If the tube is damaged, replace it with
a new tube.

3. Remove small scratches on the rod or inside of the

tube with very fine grit emery cloth. Use the emery
cloth in a rotary motion to polish out small
imperfections in the metal and blend scratch(es) into
the surrounding surface.

4. Clean the parts with trichlorethylene after repair.

5. Check that the rod (10) is straight. If the rod is bent,

install a new rod.

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